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Try unbolting the starter while still wired up and strap it to the driveshaft/spring and see if it spins when you press the button. Yes: could your engine be stuck or a piece of the nose went in the bellhousing jambing the flywheel? No: starter motor is no good.

Marine construction companies use those, military museums are often looking for them, movie rental deals? I pulled one of those around behind my M880 on a tandem axle boat trailer for a while, they are not that heavy. Now your big International bridge truck, that is heavy.

Measure the voltage at the starter solenoid stud with the start button pressed just to eliminate the possibility of bad batteries. If you still have 24 volts, my guess is the starter someone sold you may be wrong.

Pull the little excite wire loose from the alt and see if it still does it. If not, well your alt is throwing pvc's as they say in the hospital.

This one is $50 and is pressure only as needed for a diesel: Stewart Warner Deluxe Series Gauges 82321

Maybe 631st Field Artillery Brigade (BD).

Key pad dark could mean power interruptions to the Allison, or issues with the Allison keypad or transmission controller. The Allison does not have a "limp mode" like the 4L80E, if power is lost, it will not drive I believe. If you were still able to drive and auto shift with the controller...

Ponway, thanks for this post and the pictures you posted in your album, they are one of a kind. What is your opinion of what simp is going for here, specifically, the 7155 behind 250 hp not 400+?

Turn on the lights and use your voltmeter to measure between the truck frame and: 1) the negative chassis ground battery post, 2) the +24 volt battery post, the +24 volt terminal on the starter motor. Readings should be zero, +24, +24.

Radiator could be plugged. Hydraulic fan clutch the same between 6.5 and 6.2. Are you sure you installed the appropriate pump for v-belt or serpentine application?

The damage shown in the technical bulletin you provided is exactly what I have seen on 3 other Caiman IIs. The rotor shows heat discoloration and has galled residue from the pads all over it.

Voltage that appears and disappears with lighting loads is almost always battery terminal or battery cable connection problems. Remove the ends of the positive and negative cables one by one, clean and retighten. Oh and welcome to the website.

The turn signal box had screw terminal connections on top, and the wires connecting to it had ring terminals. I recall that box being under the hood near the steering column? Or was that the 715?

Consensus seems to be that a ETM on the Caiman II was never released by BAE prior to the Sealy plant closure. Everything went in the trash. The Meritor axles are not supported either. Great looking rig!

Please let us know if that fixes it. There are numerous agencies here in Texas that have deadlined Caimans due to this issue. I'll pass on the info.

Is it the right rear caliper? That seems to be where quite a few have the dragging problem. Appreciate the moisture diagnosis, that could very well be the issue. We noticed that the dragging would go away when the system air was drained, which is why I never suspected moisture.

If you had the large gauge cables backwards, there would have been fireworks when you reconnected the batteries. Check that you indeed have +24 at the solenoid stud with a voltmeter. If so, the starter could be defective.

First of all welcome to the website. Sounds like your Caiman has the usual unsolved dragging brake issue?

Are you saying they told you that Plan B gets trucks directly from DLA (Defense Logistics Agency) and not from Govplanet?

12.7 takes like 10 gallons of oil, super common filters. If it really needs an oil change (doubt it), run it to a 18 wheeler oil change place, they will have the filters on the shelf.