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Thanks for the information, downloaded the TM, it will be very helpful. And what a great page to start at 1776 !!

Where would I find that?

Great, that's pretty much what I thought but I only have experience with 1 HMMWV, mine. It's better to ask people that have experience with many.

You can easily remove the oil fill in the hubs and then check the line. That won't cause any back pressure or damage seals.

Thanks for the reply, my driveshaft is the old style with the flange that bolts on the yoke. I have a TH400 and 318 (iirc). I bought the driveshaft in 2019 before I really knew what I was looking for, it was cheap. I have been collecting parts for the conversion and planning for the swap. I...

I was hoping someone would know for sure what I am trying to do will work. I'll just order it ( 5937525 ) and hope for the best. Thanks for the replies.

I have the driveshaft. I need one of these for the 1350 universal joint.

Here is what I have. Ultimately I'm hoping I can use it in my m998 with the stock differential and 6.5 GEP converted to 4L80 with 242. I believe it is the correct length and will fit the 242 output. I also think I only need to change the differential yoke. Based on the information above...

Thanks, that's the one I thought it was but couldn't confirm it. This year I'm doing a 4L80/242 conversion and I have 12K driveshaft from a A2. If I understand correctly the universal is larger and requires the 12K yoke on the differential. I believe it is a direct swap from the original m998...

I can't definitively figure out what part number I need for a 12K rear differential yoke. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

I would start with the forums since that is where people are that would be most interested. There is a classified section on pretty much all of them. Craigslist and epay are other options as well. And as mentioned GP but I suspect they will take the most amount of your money if ti sells...

In 1984 I had a 1978 Datsun B210 that me and a friend were in. We were having a discussion about a particular corner in the road that was marked 15 mph. I said I could take that corner at 35 mph. The rest of the road was 35 mph. Although I made the corner we came out of it sideways and...

No amount of anything is going to protect you in my opinion. Even with a roll cage, there is nothing of structure anywhere. It's all relatively thin aluminum that will tear away. Nothing secures well and would fly around and rip off, like doors, windshield, tops etc. A roll cage will stop...

As noted above, I have never seen one or touched one. Since everything else is aluminum I assumed it too was aluminum. Steel is much easier to fix.

Careful heating aluminum, it will quickly melt away. I would only use heat sparingly.

I've already tried a 5 pound fine tuning tool and it didn't touch it.

I've never fixed one or even seen one before. I'm assuming, based on the picture, it is bent up and should be more like a 90 bend. I've built many single use tools to fix stuff. I'd build a way to mount it then using schedule pipe that fit inside and outside I'd get some leverage. Using a...

I bought a pair of these fold up steps. Wasn't sure what I was going to do with them. I didn't like the idea of drilling the bumper to mount them. While doing the other stuff today I took one out and started holding it up to see if I could use them. The bolt holes looked like they might line...

I put a set of mud flaps on today. I've also been trying to figure where and how to mount a license plate and light. I bought a Signal-stat 9365 combination light and bracket from a humvee parts place and paid way too much for it. I thought it was for a Hummer but it's just a generic mount...

I replaced the lights a couple of years ago. That that time I knew they needed more work. The tail light buckets and rear side marker light buckets are almost 30 years old and were cracked, worn and brittle. At the same time I also wanted to add reverse lights. The reflectors are also in bad...