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Sorry Rusty if I offended you in any way. I just couldn't resist my one liner. I meant it to be funny like the above post #4693 that the pinched line helped keep the brake shoes from wearing out. I knew fully what you meant and just expected everyone to know it was all in fun.
I would not let my grandchildren go near a disaster waiting to happen like that. Taking a knife to it will not save them either. That tire is going to blow out!! I would let the air out of that tire until it could be changed out. Grandchildren are too precious to have a rotten tire blow up in...
How much does this bumper weigh? With a 454 engine and this bumper you should get traction on the front axle. Did you have to add any weight to rear end to hold it down??
Well said Rusty!! I totally agree!! My 1980 K20 camper special pickup has all these supports in place factory installed and has held up well for over 300,000 miles of farm use!!
Sounds like you just diagnosed your problem here. If transmission ran with a vibration after hitting big hole in road that cracked case this bad it is amazing it has run this long!! Just saying!! I hope you can find a heavy duty case for a rebuild!!
I have a 1980 K20 camper special that was purchased in 1992 with 31,??? miles. It was just used for hunting and fishing vacations by a man that had 3 of these pickups. This truck drove nice and straight and everything was tight for a 12 year old pickup. I pulled a trailer one night and the 400...
I suspect the high lift jack handle is fitting OVER the broken axle enough to not drive it out. The solid shaft punch with sledge should move the axle end enough to remove c clip. Hard to tell from here without measurements of all the affected parts.
You are going to need a replacement axle. Measure the correct axle diameter on the splines that go thru the gear. Your "punches" will need to be smaller than this measurement. I would use a solid shaft to drive the broken axle end inward to remove c clip. Hopefully this will loosen the material...
I would want to KNOW that a 10 bolt rear end was usable (not just a salvage yard core) before going to the trouble of changing one in a remote location. High mile 10 bolt rears are not on the dependable list.
I would prefer a 1"pressed steel shaft material or cold rolled shaft material over 1"...
I don't think that is a hole in cover. Metal fragments that have collected on magnet.
If axle broke with all 4 wheels pulling how is it going to make it out with front wheel drive only? Just a thought?
Tough luck situation!
Sounds like jack handle and mallet not big and heavy enough to get the job done. I would take a SOLID shaft that will fit in axle tube and a 10 to 20 pound sledge hammer and move that broken axle inward. If it won't move a bigger hammer is usually needed. It will move inward and probably the...
I can imagine if you were trying to bid on an auction and the system wasn't working and it wouldn't accept your bid you would be glad the auction had been extended. Just a thought.
Not that bad with harmonic balancer remover and installer tool. Never hammer a balancer onto the crank nor use the bolt that holds it on to install or you will pull the threads inside the crank. You can remove bottom pan and front cover to put new front seal in. Then remove rear main cap to...
Remove the cable from the speedometer, drop it down and remove the cable completely from the cable housing. Clean it really good with some spray lube to remove all the old grease. Sometimes there is a dry hard blob in the cable housing that will come out when you remove the cable. After getting...
I would not put this engine in before putting a new balancer and front and rear main seals. A lot easier on a stand than in the truck. I have had a balancer spit the rubber out on an '89 1 ton with low miles.
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