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i plan to keep parts in stock, but it will depend on demand as to how often i have gears made so there may be short periods of time when they are not ready. as for exchange transmissions, the shipping cost of 250 lbs out and back might make that not work. most likely there will be people around...

i don't see where it is said what the oil level is when it leaks. that is VERY important as fuel in the oil will leak like mad when beyond a certain level. JDT, one of the most overlooked fuel leaks is the booster pump. it can literally put gallons of fuel in the oil in a very short time. tom

sounds like the thermo switch on the side. should be available from someone like grainger with numbers from the old switch. i have found parts for the heaters are just not available. tom

yes, it is easy. completely remove drive shaft to transfer. take off rear flange, bearing cover, spacer and using suitable puller, remove rear bearing which will be very tight on shaft. i assume you will already have top cover off. slide shaft back and lift front end. you will drop 14 roller...

'so few miles'? it is almost never known what the true miles are. and on top of that they are abused and misused many times, and most trucks have soft tops whitch is an invitation for water to get in trans. so of course there will be trans' that have problems. otherwise it is a very tough...

re read what i said, it's not really what you said. i don't think this is a 'common' problem and have never actually seen one broken. also it is normal for 2nd not to go into gear when stopped. the nose on the syncro and gear dogs is quite blunt and requires some rotation to engage. the next...

the hub of 2/3 syncro should slide easily. that hub slides on another hub that is keyed to the mainshaft. it sounds like this inner hub has split, jamming the syncro hub in neutral. remove the mainshaft, disassymble and inspect. tom

you want TM-9-2910-226-34

but none of this matters as you do not use any of the marks on the pulley to install the HH. to replace the HH, you line up the red tooth only and do not move anything until you put the new HH in. how did you get it out or back in without bending the drive gear cover? tom

or you could just adjust it correctly. tom

just plug the small port at the pump. it is not needed. in very old hydraulic design they thought it needed a line to the area behind the seal, but in this pump it is connected to the suction line inside the pump so there is never any pressure at the seal. tom

reading your post #15, this is exactly what will happen if the booster pump tries to pull fuel and there is any kind of restriction in the supply side of slight air leak as in fitting not tight. is the fuel line under the front crossmember smashed? fairly common. tom

ok, you are going to have to use logic and common sense to diagnose this problem. do you have a boost gauge? if not put something 0-15 on the intake manifold and see what the boost is. also since you have so much black smoke, turn the fuel rate down a lot to start with. recheck the pump to...

because if you look at previous post you will see it is a clone. and because probably no one would pay what i think it is worth. tom

probably from the injector not being tight enough. the copper seal under it is to stop compression leakage. only thing to do is have them tested, unless it ran good, then don't. i will say i rarely test injectors and find them all ok, mostly some have issues, but still run. tom

right, my truck is a clone of a m-621

finally got the final drawing for approval from forest city gear. should now be only 5 weeks for first 25 sets. anyone interested should reconfirm for first shot at these. tom

parts are available though i doubt you would ever break it. the general thought seems to be that it is worth $1000 so if someone wants it let me know. white owl probably still has some as well. tom

remember, if the HH is bad that is all you need to replace, not the whole pump assy. tom

i have plenty of the rollers as does white owl. i also have all the other brngs. if they are pitted look real close at the inside of input and front of MS. i thought the syncros on ebay were for 5 ton, could be wrong. they are not too much anyway, but i have never seen a bad one, usually...