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Shows to be a 1952. see attached. Paint registration number 4C1714 on the hood. Your truck served well into the 2000's.

Army called these "shop vans". Attached is a data dump of the Army's inventory data circa 2010. Unfortunately unit information is not included. See if your VIN is there.

Those heavy gauge wires go back to the connector in the bed for the radio rack.

Best mod for that truck is the 4L80E transmission. I thought those tires looked big, I run the same size Goodyears on my CUCV.

Good looking radio truck. What tires are on there, they look extra wide in your picture. What are your plans for the 10-08?

Wow Air Force time machine you got there. That is as clean as you will find on earth for the year.

At this point I would obtain solid core ignition wires and make up a set of 6, stuffing the ends of the wires into the shielded spark plug and the ignition tower. This will eliminate the wires. Weak spark outside of the cylinder will be even weaker under compression. Should be a loud SNAP...

Welcome. Yes your truck is suffering from various fuel issues. The fuel pickup in the tank can have rust holes allowing air to suck in. The hoses in the fuel lines can have cracks allowing air to suck in. There might be algae and nasty crap in the fuel tank plugging up the pickup. You need...

I just use a padlock and lock the pull starter to the steering wheel. That's what Uncle does.

Welcome to Texas you will love Waco and the area around it.

Shaft and bearing stay in place. The retainer cap holds the seal.

Yes that retains the bearing and holds the seal.

Yup remove the yoke and the retainer, replace seal with modern seal (take yoke and retainer to bearing supplier for measurements). Remove shims if there is shaft play. Put a speedysleeve on the yoke if it’s grooved.

I would go with a group 55 AGM, that will not leak and it will fit in the battery area much better.

'53 should be a Dana 25 so your donor Jeep should work. The MB/GPW would be identified by having full floating rear end so I would avoid using that front axle as the steering linkage is different.

Wow I have been messing with Jeeps for a long time and have never seen that. I still think it's repairable by a good welder. Finding a good used front axle and then paying for shipping will cost much more than the repair.

If you're not working on concrete just put a 4x8 sheet of plywood under the tire and lower the jack so the tire just touches, then you can easily (?) wiggle the wheel off the lugs and roll it somewhere. It's a bear to lift the tire/wheel vertical after you change it but it's doable by hand.

Yikes I have never seen that before. I would remove the axle and take it and the new race to a weld shop and have him blacksmith it back together and then weld the race in.

Start back at the basics. Have someone crank it and put your finger over the #1 spark plug hole and see if the #1 spark happens when the compression blows your finger off the hole.

Check the fuse on your DC to DC converter behind the seat.