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Welcome. Visit the Niehoff website, good troubleshooting info there.

Got mine from member barrman.

You do not mention cranking the engine. If the IP does not turn via cranking the engine, no fuel will go to the injectors.

Bad gas almost always requires a total fuel system overhaul. Rust and goop will keep plugging filters and sticking floats. And I have learned that using bad gas as a weedkiller will ensure that you will smell that gas for at least 2 years.

Carefully inspect the connector that goes into the box, water gets into it and the wire can burn off or have a bad connection. Meanwhile there should be no problem connecting the alternator output directly to the battery, most mil trucks are wired like that. Thanks for helping out in PR.

The 400 does not smoke, you need to have the PT pump rebuilt. 68 mph in an A1 with 11R22.5s is at the point of the engine coming apart. Keep it at 2100 rpms which is around 55 mph.

Battery probably melted off a link inside. Can't withstand 6000 amps for long. I bet you don't pull that again.

Museum of American GI part of rally underway. Debut of Nash Quad!

Yes, but the cylinder heads go over as well.

Nope. Those are atomic bomb wheels.

I got the 12 volt version as the 915 is 12 volts. The instructions say the unit can be used with both voltages, but there is a different model which is 24 volt specific, so that is somewhat confusing.

Wow, FinditParts moves fast, unit here already! If you can't find a new MRAP Pur-est, this is the way to go.

Could be GO90 from the diff or BFS from the caliper. Mostly looks like GO90 that oozed past the flange splines and was trapped by the halfshaft, and ran down when you pulled it.

Service or replace? I just ordered a new Haldex DA34100 to replace the prehistoric AD-1 on my 915 which works, but who know how well. $270 shipped on ebay.

Seen today hanging prominently at Houston's fine art museum. Good to know trucks manufactured in the Houston area served so well during the Harvey disaster.

It is like any usual automotive differential, but has brake bands on both output shafts to control steering.

Just making sure you understand that the two batteries have to be connected in series.

If it were me I would put those exceptional Hawkers back in and put the car batteries in something else. Congratulations on scoring a great truck. Spend a little time looking for other items that need PM.

You should be prepared for extremely expensive repairs by a Caterpillar dealership to get this running. Another member here bought a similar "won't start" A1 and it has a bad $4000 ECU. The starter is also an expensive item.

Please understand that you are asking about something on the fringe of the Steelsoldiers knowledge base (using a Miltope with a HMMWV STE-ICE), and sometimes a partial answer is enough to get someone pointed in the right direction.