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I count about eight questions you were asked that are unanswered. We're trying to help.

This is where I was after hearing the symptoms. Are you getting the WAIT light? Try this first: Turn the key and watch the WAIT light, when it goes out wait about 20 seconds, then turn the key off. Repeat this cycle three or four times and then try to start it. If it starts (or sounds...

I'm totally guessing, but either some type of fiberglass or plastic. Working from memory I recall seeing a spun pattern on the unpainted inside of the tube like I would expect from fiberglass, but then I also remember curls of plastic where the sheet-metal screws attache the lid to the tube...

I don't think the M1009 was good for towing anything heavier than a B-4 stand around the flightline.

I finally gathered all the parts I needed to install the big antenna on the CUCV. I'm not really sure what this was used for, but I think it was a training antenna for triggering or jamming IEDs? Not sure. Anyway, there was a 315MHz whip antenna mounted in a plexiglass strip that is screwed...

cucvrus has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space.

You need to photoshop this.

I watched this all day until it was over. Wanted to bid but didn't. Someone got a really good deal. https://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/all,wa/auction/view?auc=2164517

That was poorly worded. The tires (incl a spare) were free, the wheels were $100 for four. Painted to match the trailer.

The M1101 already has the surge brakes, runaway brakes, and parking brakes, tongue jack, landing legs, etc. I was ready to start cutting my M1101 to get it lower until I hauled a yard of gravel. The height of the trailer was actually beneficial because I could position the cart/wheelbarrow...

Lowering the M1101 seems like it would be a lot less work. There's a thread around here somewhere that details how easy it is to get that trailer close to the ground. Found it: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134805-Another-way-to-lower-an-M1101-M1102

The only primer in the garage is self etching primer. The wheels have gone many years with a coat of self etching primer and spraycan flat black, with only some chipping where a rock or lug wrench has hit.

I thought it would a two or three hour job; swap in the new(er) sliders for the topper. The old ones had moss growing in the tracks since I bought them used for $20 several years ago, but worst of all they leaked. I had reused the old (prob OE) window seals so that may have been part of it...

I usually jack up both sides and use one as a reference for reassembling the other. It's a jungle in there.

Link: https://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/auction/view?auc=2146341

This command post unit came up on the fire department auction locally but nobody bid on it. I bid and won it at the opening bid of $1. After tax and fees, a grand total of $2.09 out the door. Not sure whether I should keep it or flip it on craigslist, but it works in the M1009 pretty well...

If you need the vacuum pump to pull some clean DOT5 through the system you're welcome to it.

In the 80s we used to fly up the east coast from Charleston AFB headed towards europe, and I would use the Collins 400 watt aircraft HF radios to talk to the CBers in the northeast. I think that wasn't allowed. Anyway, 400 watts with a 37,000 foot antenna spills out over the entire eastern...

Sylvania sealed beams. If that's not bright enough there's 900 watts of aircraft landing light just a button push away.

My plate has never had a light either. So far so good.... :recovry4x4: