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Crack open one or more injector lines, and crank it like you said. See if anything comes out. My thoughts - Dead fuel shutoff solenoid? No power to fuel solenoid? Put your hand on the solenoid housing and have someone turn the switch on and off (not start), you should be able to fee the click...

Look at the small table on the bottom of this page. HPG gives some good cross references. If you can, press the new seal in, don't "Hammer" it in. Not sure if this is the 10K or 12K, but it's a start. 5590745 / 01-180-9099 5330-01-180-9099 - SEAL, GEARED HUB (INPUT) {1 PIECE} [AMG] | Hummer...

I have 214,000 miles on that '95 crappy 6.5 engine. Still runs great. Only thing ever replaced were the glow plugs and oil pressure sender.

This must be the training movie for the guys at Yermo, before they sell them to us.

Did the old lights work before you replaced them? Could be a problem in the blinker switch. When you blink right, you are opening the normal brake / hazard circuit, and routing it through the flasher. Measure your voltage at the light while braking, and while blinking.

Looking at the gauges, that looks low on refrigerant, if the compressor is running. You still have an electrical problem though. Instead of a meter, I would rig up a 24 volt lightbulb with long wires on it (solder the wires to the bulb if you don't have a socket) and use that for trouble...

My 2 cents. If you are getting enough pressure to move the tires when you rev the engine, then your pump is not putting out enough when at idle. Could be a bad pump, or leaking relief valve. Does the Hydroboost work ok? What happens when you pump the brakes while at idle? Are all the high...

Could be bio sludge. Several years ago I was in Wyoming, and filled up at a Safeway in Laramie (apparently you get what you pay for). As I was driving over a 9000+ foot back roads pass towards Colorado, the engine started sputtering, and I could barely keep it running, by keeping the pedal on...

I would match the hose to the hard line. Using a hose that is too large will cause too much deformation and stress in the rubber when tightening down the hose clamp to get a good seal. That will lead to an earlier failure of the hose.

I would almost bet "they" bent the rod ends wide open, and just pushed in the wrong ends, then clamped the hell out of them. No worries about cross threading anything, just "compression fit" everything. Curious, what did the threads look like after you got them apart?

Are you applying enough heat? There is way too much paint left in the pictures. All that paint and the boots should be toast.

Do you have enough room to get a Dremel with cutoff disc in there, or a nut splitter on the nut? Or, run a hacksaw through the center of the bolt, right through the nut after pulling out the bucket. Brute force may not work, and damage the fiberglass. Do you have the metal reinforcement ring...

HPG has a sale for .99 cents ea.

Correct. It's nondirectional. I usually use the bottom as inlet, that way, any air will get pushed out easier, although at the flowrate I doubt it will matter.

Check the hose from the top barb going to the cadillac valve. Make sure it is clear. Disconnect the hose at the cadillac valve, and blow air through the cooler and the top hose. If that is clear, and your new hose blows off, then you know that the problem is either the cadillac valve, or the...

Follow the return line hand over hand and see if it is kinked or squished anywhere.

Anerobics allow adjustment of the parts, until they are clamped together. Most Anerobics are very poor at filling any large gaps. They are for machined surfaces as someone previously stated. RTV's (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealers can fill gaps, but start to cure as soon as exposed to air...

That is part of the air conditioning system. The faster you go the cooler it gets......

I run a bead of "Slime" on the inside of the O-ring before I assemble the rim. No more leaks.

The failed plug in the picture has seen some severe heat. Either too much fuel, or something wrong in the precombustion chamber, directing the detonation towards the plug instead of down into the combustion chamber. Do you have any way to disconnect the fuel line from that injector, and another...