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OSR will get you real close. Then work your way to Tabor road and you will find us. No shoulder in case of trouble though. How much further is I-45 to 21? Big shoulders for all but the last few miles.

There will be at least one tow bar present. Vehicles have needed a helping hand a few times in the past. All worked out for the best by the end of the weekend though.

The fitting you broke was for the pipe going to the head on the back of the block, correct? I’m just trying to think of restriction locations. Another thought is the oil filter. The flow is pump, filter, crank and then up to the head, right? Pull the filter, see if oil flies. I had this...

I actually tried to keep the post short. Really. What I didn’t write was the insulation was gone where the wire to the sensor and the plug on the sensor meet. I figured that was the area of trouble. Turns out the wire wasn’t the problem at all. It was the sensor itself had an internal fault.

As I wrote in post #2 of this thread. Oily white smoke is lack of heat. Glow plugs are the heat source until the engine gets running on all cylinders. The fast idle/cold start advance on these engines is supposed to stay on until 94° F. That is to help warms it up faster and to keep it running...

If you have read this entire thread you know that probably at least 10% of my post are dealing with engine coolant temperatures and trying to get them down. If you haven’t read the entire thread here is a recap: GEP 6500 engine, Banks Sidewinder turbo, 4L80E transmission, Radiators.com 2 row...

Military vehicles are herd animals after all.

We thought you had a really, really rare one there. Since production didn’t start officially until 1967. 3/68 should have the solid state blinker and possibly the canister air filter.

You still have 4 weeks. Well, less than 4 weeks now. We are gathering in March. 21-23 of March to be specific.

That height sensing valve is a must remove item in my opinion. It is only there because the trucks but mostly the Suburban’s couldn’t pass the obstacle avoidance lane change at high speeds. Slamming on the brakes while trying to steer caused the rear brakes to lock up and the vehicle to spin. So...

That is so true! My son drove all of my MV’s to school at least once.

Since they aren’t dragging due to pressure. I would suggest that you invest in some new calipers sometime soon.

I figured that but wanted to point out a really simple thing just in case.

Do you have the CDR (Crank case DepRessurization valve) fed in front of the turbo or under pressure?

Delphi HFP906 is the correct lift pump part number. I just put one on one of my engines a few weeks ago. Besides somehow not getting the pump installed with the push rod against the pump arm. You could actually have a bad pump right out of the box. What about the supply hose to the pump. Did...

1/4” ID is the hose size from the filter to the IP. I like putting a lawn chair pad over the radiator and front of the engine to lay on.

The boost gauge will be on the intake side. It sure reads as if you have several small leaks. There are ways to check for leaks. Here is a video of doing that: Since I think you have the center mount turbo. You can pressure test through the turbo and into the 3 piece intake.

After the hose mentioned above is replaced. The next most likely leak is the o-rings on the throttle shaft. They probably won’t leak with the engine off or cold. Shining a light on either side of the IP with the engine warmed up and running might show you the leak. That is how 3 of mine have...

Great!

I have removed all of them without issue on several trucks in the past. However, I can not remember if I used the socket, a combination wrench or something else. Have you tried moving the shifter to maybe get clearance?