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All it takes is one failed glow plug to cause smoke. Several of the glow plugs are difficult to access, so not everyone bothers to replace them if the truck is still starting. I think for a while there I was starting my truck on only 2 or 3 good glow plugs in freezing conditions.

You need to check resistance on every plug, then also check to make sure every harness connector is showing 24V. It's not unknown for wires to look good on the outside but have high resistance or damage internally. The fact that it goes away when you increase the throttle or after it warms...

That really sounds like you have at least one glow plug not working properly.

Does that work for veterans of foreign armies? Since the OP is in Switzerland, I'd assume his friend is also in that region of the world.

Deep Water Fording Cup

Which model also helps, as an early truck will be 4kish, a newer truck is likely 5k or so

You won't get smoke from fuel starvation. Some smoke is common during heavy acceleration, but if it's excessive could be either an air intake restriction (plugged filter or maybe the mushroom cap on the intake is shoved down too far) Check with a multimeter to make sure you are getting...

Yes, they are different part numbers Only difference is the shift points. The turbo version has a little higher shift points, to deal with the slightly lower diff gearing and increased truck weight. also, check out this thread...

Clutched pulley should spin freely in one direction, and solidly turn the generator shaft in the other. Basically designed to the rotor can keep spinning when the RPMs drop or stop, without putting stress on the belt. Or it may have a pulley without a clutch, in which case it will be solid to...

Here is the manufacturer troubleshooting guide to verify the issue is the regulator so you aren't just throwing money at it https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

My regulator worked intermittently. Sometimes it would work on startup, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes it stopped working while I was driving. Replaced it and 4 years later no issues like that. Unless you have a bad electrical connection somewhere, then it's almost certainly a bad regulator.

I tried to put some tires from my HMMWV on an M116A2 and the tire is pressed up against the parking brake cable. Most that I've read about seem to add a 2" wheel spacer to solve this issue.

There is no charge for this event, but donations to help cover some of the costs won't be refused

The door panel in the picture is part of the SECM (Shop Equipment Contact Maintenance) body, as it has the lip on the top that goes behind the roller door. If it had a hazmat placard on it it would go to the BEOD (Body, Explosive Ordnance Disposal). Might be a couple others it would go to as...

Even if it's just cosmetic right now, there might be hidden damage that only shows up after it's installed, and most places refuse to take any type of return on used electrical components. For the cost of the alternator, I'd spend the extra time and effort to get one that didn't get the crap...

I ended up not doing anything to it yet. Nobody around here has a shelter to use with it that I could find for what I would consider a reasonable price, and I've been spending my limited funds on other projects that will actually get used more than once or twice a year. Glad to hear that it...

Okay, so I have the event created on our local facecrook group, and an event made here in the events section https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/pacific-northwest-rally.219547/

Copied and pasted from our facebook group. Time to start planning for the 2024 rally in the PNW Location is changing this year from Winlock to McCleary, WA. Dates are changing from the third weekend in July, to the second weekend in July. I put down event starts on Thursday, but that's mostly...

Unless there is something different about yours than all the others, soft doors work on pretty much every HMMWV Soft doors are definitely better than no doors, so yes, it's a good idea

Part of your ohm reading may be the wires and meter itself. 2.5 ohms is close enough to the 1.8-2.2 that I would personally not be all that concerned about it, unless I was using a stupid expensive meter that was truly accurate at those levels. One thing you can do is connect your meter leads...