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I have the RAK15 mounted in my truck, but it's not the best mounting and a little unconventional. Currently I have a 40mm can bolted to the top of my radio tray as lockable storage. I then used standoff nuts on the posts on the back of the RAK15 and bolts into them from the side of the ammo...

If it's something you might possibly need to remove at some point in the future, epoxy is a bit overkill I like using DAP Ultraclear or Lexel clear sealant on things. Great, flexible bond, but can be completely removed later if needed (unlike RTV) EDIT: it was silicone I was thinking of when...

Found this https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=325086 basically AB, AC are for turbo trucks, BA, BB are for non turbo. All that changes are the shift points

Where did you acquire the truck from, and have you tried operating the switch to see what happens? That looks like a good place for a security switch to interrupt the starting circuit.

What model/age is the truck, and any chance you have LED lights installed in the flasher positions? Any other history about the truck such as where you acquired it and if you've done anything to it might also be helpful.

I've been able to go from the driver's side and press down hard on the serpentine belt at the idler pulley on that side where the belt runs underneath, and that was enough force to slip the belt off from under that idler. The belt then had enough slack to take off from the other top idler then...

Here is a link to the manufacturer's troubleshooting chart for the 200 amp system. 95%+ of the time when output is wrong, it's the regulator, but still a good idea to follow the test procedures. https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

I'm sure it's possible to convert with enough time/skills/money, but it's not engineered for it from the factory, so would add some complexity.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rear-fender-condenser-to-red-dot-install-thread.195910/page-4 part numbers for both fans, and an additional fan assemlby with 10" blades that has the same motor. None of them show up in ebay, but I know a couple years back I purchased one of each of the 3...

the dreaded part was sarcasm, as many people seem to dislike the idea of having to read and finding what they need to know from a manual, when they think it is easier to just ask questions (the same ones that get asked over and over, taking up a lot of forum pages)

Fan should be either all or nothing. Comes on, cools engine, turns off. The newer fans (A2 variant or newer) are redesigned to be quieter than A0/A1 trucks, so if it's just the sound you're basing the "partial engagement" on, I wouldn't worry. Sounds like your old cooling system just wasn't...

When I'm doing it, I usually bring the RPMS up a bit, then loosen up a little on the brakes. As long as you have light pressure on the brakes, it should stay locked up. You're doing more modulating of the brakes than you are the throttle most of the time. You do have to keep light pressure or...

When I did my fronts, I used a large impact driver to spin it while gently tapping on it to get it started, so I wasn't fighting against the friction so much. Once it got far enough, I used the new bolt from the other side to drive it through.

If there is fuel in the tank, but none getting to the filter, either the check valves in the fuel line just in front of the tank are plugged, or the fuel pump is failed. It could possibly also be an air leak somewhere in the system before the fuel pump, so check over the fuel lines and make sure...

I just double checked, and looks like all the ones posted here are all assembled the same way and according to the markings, so we could make a pretty long cable if we were all in the same place :)

"Diesel oil" is also acceptable in most places as well.

That's what they are designed for.

Externally it doesn't matter as long as they are wired the same for your setup. My plug ends do appear to be a little different design than the others, but as long as the positive and negative go to the correct place, and we don't mix and match cables that don't have the anderson plugs...

Just as a warning, you're talking about 8k pages, including some that are larger format and would be 4-6 pages by themselves It's a lot more efficient to just print the sections you need as you need them, rather than using up 4k pages of paper and multiple ink cartridges. I'm not sure how...

If you are going to make them yourself and want a little added versatility, you can make them with Anderson type plugs near the ends, then make yourself another end with jumper cable clamps or other types of ends. If you have multiple cables you can also then plug them together to make one...