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Well received, PM sent to Daybreak…Thanks for the response as well as informing me about the forum rules. I’ll update my location info.

Thanks for sharing this video, I still would like some feedback on how I initially stated that I was planning on wiring for my setup.

If I remember correctly the TM’s had info on running with or without switch box for parallel however not much detail on actual wiring setup. Again I will revisit the TM’s instructions especially once I am in the process of getting the units synced together.

It’s been at least a year since I’ve looked at them, I plan on revisiting as soon as possible.

Yes, I have the cable.

I need to parallel 2 MEP1040s. I’m looking for advice on wiring the two units. My thoughts are wire one unit to the other then wire one of the two units to my master panel. Any flaws or problems with this method? Thanks in advance for any assistance!!

IMG_5078.MOV Just wanted to give an update and say thanks for all the support!! I swapped out the voltage regulator and everything is now running as it should. I still need to load test it but have confidence it will perform as expected. Additionally, it looks like I will be acquiring two more...

Gutted the CIM and didn’t see any battery on outer two circuit boards. Unless it’s deeper within which would be on the actual screen circuit board I’m gonna say mine is non-existent. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Thanks, I’ll check it out, also I should receive another Voltage Regulator mid week. Hopefully it will indicate on LED #35 and take control as necessary🤞🏼

Pulled the two other boards and visually they appear to be in good shape.

#33 & #34 are lit, #35 “Field Voltage” is NOT. All dip switches are set correctly. I tested per procedure (pic attached) this morning and step 9 reading was 192 VDC so definitely a problem somewhere. I’m hoping to identify vs replacing complete module and it doesn’t resolve issue.

Unfortunately I do not, I am gonna see if I can locate one to purchase. Something tells me they are hard to find and they definitely don’t give em away. If the price is thru the roof, I’ll purchase another non-operational 805B and have all sorts of spare parts.

I traced wires this afternoon and found two disconnected from TB8 (Exciter Field Terminal Board), I reconnected and now have/see generator producing power. Problem now is unit cranks but shuts down due to high voltage. I attempted to lower from toggle switch as well as set screw on A4 (Voltage...

I’m definitely looking for what could have caused the problem to correct and prevent any reoccurrence. I appreciate the comments and will look closely at the standoffs. Additionally P24 definitely has some char on it but didn’t last long enough for the plastic to melt so must have been a quick...

Had a electronics shop look at ESD5551 “Speed Control Unit " circuit board, they determined the capacitors were ok but copper trace on backside of board had a hot spot and separation. They soldered over the bad spot. I re-installed and the unit started right up. Now engine is running but...

Here is a picture of where the fault light is that won’t clear, it’s R10 LED5. I managed to get the keypad working (hopefully my fix lasts for awhile) and the rest of fault lights to clear/reset. Also I changed the MPU and set it between 2.5-3v. When cranking I can barely see speed sensor light...

Key pad on CIM left and down arrows non-operational. Only msg is low oil pressure but clears when toggling reset. Not home to take picture but light is a red LED on circuit board.

Would you be able to tell me what R10 fault light is correlated with, it’s the only one I can’t get to clear.

Looking at current MPU set up and it appears J13 red wire is attached to MPU white wire and J13 black wire is attached to MPU red wire. Can anyone verify if this is ok, do the wires even matter as long as both are terminated. This will also come into play when I receive and install the new MPU...

May or may not be related but I failed to mention the following fault lights: R20 LED14, R9 LED6, and R10 LED5 are all lit red.