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I have replaced the fuel sender unit hoping it was just a bad seal on the tank or rusted connection. No luck. However, the fuel gauge is now reading correct to what is in the tank.
Next thing I checked is if it was a fuel line alongside the frame rail. I removed the rubber supply line from the...
Sorry for the delay in progress, life happened - lost a family member and school is moving into finals.
Whenever the truck dies out air will hit the fuel filter box before the injectors is this typical of trapped air in the lines?
I have also noticed that the fuel tank no longer has a...
Is there a good way to tell if a starter has been fried? The thing just absolutely drains the piss outta my batteries in order for it to run at high speeds . I have to constantly keep the charger on the truck.
Also is there a proper order the lines are to be bled? She'll run for a solid 2 - 3...
New line arrived curtesy of @nyoffroad, all hooked up. 3 cranks later and low on the batteries. Got out the old battery charger letting it sit for a couple of hours and came back to completely drained batteries. Going to take the 31s to someone who has a shop charger and hope I can get a quick...
I always have tried squeezing the air out of the uppermost radiator/coolant hose once the engine gets up to temp with the cap off, helps to burp the system I have found.
The best way to take care of chemicals according to 1980s GM is to dump them in the local river (I am not advising).
Found the problem, grounding wire of some sort was fried again. I tried fixing it when I changed out the blinker bulb. I will eventually upload a photo of the mess.
Did not have much time as I would have liked this weekend to dedicate towards the truck, but I was able to fix the IP leak with re-wrenching them down. Saw on the youtubes a helpful tip for the IP lines, notching the closed side with just enough room to slide the hardline through. this was...
Finally got around to removing the intake and broken line. Was not prepared for how much of a sludge mess of oil dirt and rat sh*t would be in the valley, did a fair bit of scrubbing and vacuuming to remove all the grime. Did the same with the intake.
Biggest lesson of the day was to take...
New issue has arrived, broken fuel gauge and a whole mess.
Back story, ran out of diesel as my gauge has recently quit working and I have tried re-priming the line with diesel to get the truck to start again. I have bled the fuel filter and have gotten diesel all the way through, however after...
Out of curiosity, what does the rear interior of the cab look like? (The vertical section behind the doors where the gun rack is) I am experiencing an explosion of rust in this area, I have not found a patch panel if there is one.
I am not sure what plugs are currently in, I received a bunch of parts alongside the truck when I bought it, including boxes for glow-plugs. I will give them a gander at some point this week to see if the old ones or new ones are in there and compare to the ones already in.
I may be mistaken...
For clarification, the truck has unfortunately already undergone the 12V conversion by one of the previous owners. I am looking into 3D printing blocks to better secure the batteries in the trays.
I have to keep everything on a budget as I am still in college trying to scrape by on pennies...
Rewired a new marker socket in - the replacement one above by Dorman was junk: bulb wouldn't seat and grounding wire fell out. ID no. 85830.
Heater blower switch has poor wiring and requires a lil finessing in order to keep running. Dash was removed by previous owner and left behind a rats nest...
The first thing I had to replace were my U-joints, just make sure you don't put the drive shaft in backwards like me. A good item to invest in would be serviceable diff covers, my bet with it being in Alaska the drain plugs are going to be stuck.
I would also second looking into a new harmonic...
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