The Mule Rides Again

[tacotruck]

As previously mentioned, I came into cucvsrus' legendary "Mule" thru some bartering with the gentlemen he sold it to.

As it sits, she has about 6700 on the odometer, I got it with around 3000 (roll over if I understand correctly so 103-106k?).

Truck had more or less sat for at least a year prior to me getting into it. Pennsylvania is cruel to cars and rust was starting to set into the body again, so I finally got the excuse to take it off the road to do some body work when a fuel line split. There have been minor repairs here and there (alternator rebuilds, reseal the rear dif, refreshed/returned to stock the front grille area etc) but nothing "big" so far.

The truck is solid shape but could use a lot to make it "perfect". I have to limit the scope however or it won't get finished. Thus scope for this summer is to repair/replace the floors pan from the rear seats back, overhaul the fuel system (lines, probably replace filter, maybe add a secondary filter, potentially replace the tank as I'm not sure if tank is gonna clean up well).







If things go really well there is at least one patch needed behind the driver's seat and rocker work, which would let me get it done enough to potentially drop in a vinyl floor like I've considered but not sure I want to go that far yet as dry rot is really beginning to set in on the tires, and if I want to put any miles on this 100% those will need done and that will be some $$$.

For now, for a start, over about 3-4 hours (but about 4 weeks due to dodging rain...) rear bumper is off, fuel tank is out, going to clean up the metal underneath on the floor with a wire wheel to get an idea of exactly how good or bad various spots are when it comes to cutting and patching. I know for sure the entire tail pan needs to come out, the left rear corner/body mount is just gone. I do already have some panels I plan to use but haven't ruled out just putting an entire complete pan in it.





Stay tuned for next time where we see what's in the tank.

 

[WWRD99]

My son replaced the rear floor pan in his. He saved the crossmembers then panel bonded all 3 pieces in. Clamped tight for a day and it's done! Got the panels from lmc. There's some trimming to fit perfect but not to much. Definitely worth it vs a few patches.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[tacotruck]

Got the lock ring off the tank.

The sending unit unfortunately did not survive removing the hoses. I cut them off when dropping it rather than fuss with it in those tight quarters, and attempts to remove the remnants on the ground were futile.

Inside of the tank and fuel quality isn't looking too hot.



Lot of debris floating in the tank itself, lot of algae on the sock. I'm actually surprised it ran as well as it did, and not surprised I had to do a box filter in it last year.



Prior owner always treated his fuel, I tried to at least in winter... probably wasn't enough for the amount I was using it. it looks like a new tank is $120 + freight from LMC, is there anything wrong with those tanks that would make it worth while to get this one cleaned, especially given starting to rust in the filler neck of the tank? Can I step up to a 31 gal and keep the skid plate for the tank?

Otherwise starting to clean up the metal underneath. Go figure the stuff under the tank was some of the cleaner metal left making this somewhat unnecessary, but oh well.

 

[adf5565]

Got the lock ring off the tank.

The sending unit unfortunately did not survive removing the hoses. I cut them off when dropping it rather than fuss with it in those tight quarters, and attempts to remove the remnants on the ground were futile.

Inside of the tank and fuel quality isn't looking too hot.

View attachment 922375

Lot of debris floating in the tank itself, lot of algae on the sock. I'm actually surprised it ran as well as it did, and not surprised I had to do a box filter in it last year.

View attachment 922377

Prior owner always treated his fuel, I tried to at least in winter... probably wasn't enough for the amount I was using it. it looks like a new tank is $120 + freight from LMC, is there anything wrong with those tanks that would make it worth while to get this one cleaned, especially given starting to rust in the filler neck of the tank? Can I step up to a 31 gal and keep the skid plate for the tank?

Otherwise starting to clean up the metal underneath. Go figure the stuff under the tank was some of the cleaner metal left making this somewhat unnecessary, but oh well.

I went with a Dorman fuel tank and it was fine so I wouldn't bother trying to reuse the current one. Who makes a 31 gallon tank?

 

[Adrok]

There are some universal tanks that run a little cheaper, but none that are close to 31 gal.

 

[WWRD99]

I went with a Dorman fuel tank and it was fine so I wouldn't bother trying to reuse the current one. Who makes a 31 gallon tank?

I think it's the suburban tank...it sits lower so you can't use the stock steel shield.

 

[WWRD99]

Got the lock ring off the tank.

The sending unit unfortunately did not survive removing the hoses. I cut them off when dropping it rather than fuss with it in those tight quarters, and attempts to remove the remnants on the ground were futile.

Inside of the tank and fuel quality isn't looking too hot.

View attachment 922375

Lot of debris floating in the tank itself, lot of algae on the sock. I'm actually surprised it ran as well as it did, and not surprised I had to do a box filter in it last year.

View attachment 922377

Prior owner always treated his fuel, I tried to at least in winter... probably wasn't enough for the amount I was using it. it looks like a new tank is $120 + freight from LMC, is there anything wrong with those tanks that would make it worth while to get this one cleaned, especially given starting to rust in the filler neck of the tank? Can I step up to a 31 gal and keep the skid plate for the tank?

Otherwise starting to clean up the metal underneath. Go figure the stuff under the tank was some of the cleaner metal left making this somewhat unnecessary, but oh well.

We did the LMC tank and sender. Fits great. You could use the Suburban tank but the shield won't fit...you may get away with making 6 spacers to drop it lower though. Just pop a jerry can in the left rear spot. There's a good mount for it. The filler neck that bolts to the truck is still available unless you're talking about the long neck on the tank that might be rusty. Really I look at it, is I got the thing out do I spend the 180$ to replace all of it or spend a day cleaning it up. The big place to worry about is where the sender ring gets put in. If that is rusty or messed up it can leak.

 

[tacotruck]

We did the LMC tank and sender. Fits great. You could use the Suburban tank but the shield won't fit...you may get away with making 6 spacers to drop it lower though. Just pop a jerry can in the left rear spot. There's a good mount for it. The filler neck that bolts to the truck is still available unless you're talking about the long neck on the tank that might be rusty. Really I look at it, is I got the thing out do I spend the 180$ to replace all of it or spend a day cleaning it up. The big place to worry about is where the sender ring gets put in. If that is rusty or messed up it can leak.

Yeah, if the LMC Suburban tank won't let me use the skid plate gonna skip that. Not worth it. I'll just go with the standard 25. I did actually manage to find a polymer jerry can I use to store fuel in now, really fits the truck.

I do have a new filler neck that mounts to the body as that has some internal and external rust that is getting fairly crusty.

I am definitely just gonna replace the tank as the neck on the tank itself has some stuff in it, the lock ring area is all junked up from rust.

 

[cucvrus]

 

[cucvrus]

 

[cucvrus]

 

[cucvrus]

That fuel tank was brand new GM one 15 years ago. I had it out and changed the pick up sock and sprayed the entire tank with undercoating back in 2010. I drove the pants off that truck for many years. I think it had 17k on it when I bought it and it was a NG truck from Puxatawney PA. I think Phil the ground hog drove it and maintained it because it was a puss case when I bought it. I stripped it bare and pressure washed everything. It was a good vehicle. Check out my build thread on that thing.

 

[tacotruck]

That fuel tank was brand new GM one 15 years ago. I had it out and changed the pick up sock and sprayed the entire tank with undercoating back in 2010. I drove the pants off that truck for many years. I think it had 17k on it when I bought it and it was a NG truck from Puxatawney PA. I think Phil the ground hog drove it and maintained it because it was a puss case when I bought it. I stripped it bare and pressure washed everything. It was a good vehicle. Check out my build thread on that thing.

It runs good.

I think the crowning achievement was hauling some flight hardware in it when the company van was down about 2 years ago, needed something enclosed so couldn't use a pickup bed and with the seats flipped up it fit fine. probably the first time it had done work on Uncle Sam's dime in quite a long time, and also probably the last.

Progress will be slow. I typically get home after 730 on weekdays and don't tend to feel motivated to wrench, but got enough spring yard work done this week to where I think I can make some progress Wednesday and make a final call on if I am gonna piece together the rear pan from the patch panels I have or order a complete pan.

 

[tacotruck]

Slow progress due to a mix of bad weather lining up with days off, which creates a back log of little spring projects for me to do...

Started wire wheeling the underside of the sheet metal. About half done, need to get forward of the differential and then come back with a different brush and get into the corners and other areas the cup brush wouldn't go.









Not a real pleasant job and my arms tire out quick holding that grinder up there so only doing small bits (30 minutes at a time) so I don't burn out or get frustrated.

The crusty areas are crusty but the area under the fuel tank is altogether in solid shape, my guess is tank shielded it from all the nasty splash. However the inner fenders which see splash all the time are all pretty solid, whereas in my 05 Silverado that is amazingly about the only part of the body with holes in it... weird how this stuff goes sometime.

I'll probably get to the frame while I'm under there at some point to clean it up and reapply some sort of coating as all the rust I'm seeing is just surface stuff, nothing that really scares me after having some other scary Chevys.

Initial inspection of the fuel hard lines looks good, as long as the rubber lines all come off okay I should avoid having to buy/make any of that.

 

[cucvrus]

I probably contributed most of the nasty slush and salt damage to that vehicle. I ran that hard for a few winters here in PA. We had a few major blizzards and I would run the mule to keep the salt off my new stuff. I bought that M1009 at a local sale in 2006 and bought 4 M1009’s and paid $700. for all 4. 3 of the 4 ran and drove when I got them home. The 4th one had 13 k miles and no hood was on it. The engine was locked up from water down the air cleaner studs. The mule had a hot dose of CARC green on it that burnt thru the OEM paint and was peeling off. It was thick and all over everything. Some one had painted the 6.2 diesel Mopar blue and it had bees nests every where. I removed all the body parts and interior and steam washed everything. I was always a fan of the rusty speedometer and fuel gauge. They still both worked perfect but they had mice nests a top of the cluster under the dash pad and the urine from the mice leak d into the cluster. Not my favorite clean up but the t added to the patina. I sanded and spot painted the 3 color camouflage and drove it a whole year or 2 with no roof. I had a seat cover and slid the seat forward and folded it front. I had a bench seat in it from a 1994 Kodiak. We did a few walk thru cab chassis and I had 10 brand new grey vinyl bench seats. I made brackets with studs so I did not have to modify the floor. Good times. But I guess all that winter driving without the roof and everything getting pounded with salt made its mark. Still not bad for a 40 year old vehicle. Good Luck and take care. If I had the energy I did back then I would remove the body from the frame and start over. I used that old mule to keep my new trucks nice and out of the salt. Take Care.

 

[tacotruck]

Honestly this really isn't that bad period, much less for a 40 year old car. Ive had 15 year old cars with less mileage look worse, some of them GM products.







I'm about 75% done the rear area. Need to change wheels to get into the tight corners, maybe a quick once over again with a fresh wheel. Then some work on the drivers side, both inner rockers, and I'll be done the sheet metal wheeling. Anything more aggressive will probably break out a flap wheel or the braided wire wheel, just depends on where I end up welding. I'll need to figure out a way to get behind the one cross member so I can clean up the ledge between the front and rear pan, may be able to get at it with a hand brush.

At this point though I am considering just doing an entire complete pan even though I already have the LH side. We will see after I spend a little more time on it.

 

[cucvrus]

That is more work then I will ever do again in this lifetime. Have at it.

 

[cucvrus]

If you want to do a very through job take the body off the frame and tilt the body.

 

[WWRD99]

Honestly this really isn't that bad period, much less for a 40 year old car. Ive had 15 year old cars with less mileage look worse, some of them GM products.

View attachment 924432

View attachment 924433

View attachment 924434

I'm about 75% done the rear area. Need to change wheels to get into the tight corners, maybe a quick once over again with a fresh wheel. Then some work on the drivers side, both inner rockers, and I'll be done the sheet metal wheeling. Anything more aggressive will probably break out a flap wheel or the braided wire wheel, just depends on where I end up welding. I'll need to figure out a way to get behind the one cross member so I can clean up the ledge between the front and rear pan, may be able to get at it with a hand brush.

At this point though I am considering just doing an entire complete pan even though I already have the LH side. We will see after I spend a little more time on it.

Tough call on doing the entire floor pan. It does cost some but not crazy and it isn't that tough to do. You'll end up with a very tight body though. On ours the rear seat pockets were gone so it only made sense to just do all of it. Think it was around 300 from LMC for all 3 parts.

 

[CUCV VZ]

Out of curiosity, what does the rear interior of the cab look like? (The vertical section behind the doors where the gun rack is) I am experiencing an explosion of rust in this area, I have not found a patch panel if there is one.