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I m going to try a wood wedge first and the breaker bar on front if engine. I hope I don't need the special tool. Great ideas and thank you all for the input!
I looked at the manual and 200 to 220ft/lb was the spec. I cannot get it torqued down without the motor starting to turn. Do any of you have a tip on how to keep motor from turning while torquing bolts?
Thank you for the information. I ended up taking the pressure plate back and bought the new design. It probably would have been fine with the clutch pedal adjustment, but the clutch job was too much work to risk it.
There are different design pressure plates I have found. The one I pulled out of the truck has no adjustment that I can find. There are three screws for the clutch fingers. I am trying to set ip my new clutch per the manual. The I have dialed in the first adjustment.
I am having issues...
I picked up a clutch kit from a local milsurp place. The kit came with a standard clutch disc and a greaseable throwout collar. The pressure plate nuts are a little different also. I hope this kit is right kit 👀
Wow! I am about to pick up the parts for a clutch change. I will definitely be repacking the T/O bearing. I have read that moly grease is common on them. How hard was it to get the bearing open?
Thank you all for the input! I have read the liners and seals are sensitive in this motor. It would be devastating to me to ruin the motir doing preventative maintenance.
Hello All,
I am about to change the coolant and hoses in my M817. I bought Zerex original green antifreeze and am trying to find and equivalent for the Mil-A-53009 antifreeze extender additive that is in the manual. Is this an SCA additive? How much do I need? Do you flush the system? If...
I am getting ready to replace the clutch on my M817. I am seeing button type and standard disk style. What are most using when they replace their clutch?