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We have the rear axle out of service at the moment. Once it is all back together we will hook it all up and see what we learn. That laptop is very nice—

In our 2003 M1078A1 the lower rpm range of 3rd gear is not locked. When watching the gear status either on Bluefire or using the DPA III+ connected to a laptop you can seen the torque converter locked status change. And you certainly feel the change in the seat as well. I'll try to pay...

1,600 to 2,400 rpm with 3.07's and EcoHubs in 3L would be about 32mph to 49mph; 1,600 to 2,400 rpm with 3.07's alone in 3L would be about 16mph to 24mph. To be at 16mph with 3.07's and EcoHubs the pacbrake would have to lower the rpm's to 800 and the torque converter would need to remain...

I have never owned one either, this LMTV has me buying tools I didn't already have. Like impact tools and such, 20 bolts a split rim over 200#?

With the EcoHubs on 3.90's I wish I could reprogram the pedal to react more slowly at first and progressively become more responsive. Better yet 4.50's might be about perfect—

https://www.oshkoshequipment.com/products/detail/84/5421/CTIS%2DSpindle%2DHub%2DSeal Scroll down to related items for bearing hub seals—

Only doing rears right now. Fronts will be another time; looking forward to learning from you. What are you using for a seal driver? The tool I found is $200, though I don't want to do this again, so $200—

Back to seal purchases. Redoing our rear axle we purchased hub and CTIS seals from Oshkosh (OSE), I view OSE better than ebay and some others—

Eastern. Though we ordered 5; one that arrived was not a Hutchinson and we sent it back as it would allow beads to enter the space between the beadlock and rim cylinder. They refunded us for the one we sent back. Still awaiting arrival of a fifth for the spare— {EDIT: buying used items over...

We are now running rubber Hutchinson beadlocks, 24 ounces, using 1/2" stainless bearings, dynamic balancing beads and 24 ounces, fish weights held on with extra split rim nuts opposite the CTIS wheel valves. [edit: added a photo of how we attacked the fish weights. @Gunny 0369 did it much...

This is silly perhaps, but we swapped the voltage and water temperature gauges and the 12volt and emergency flasher switches. We have been looking at reorganizing the dash layout to easier monitor vitals. After contemplating adding transmission temperature, rpm, current gear and drawing new...

I have avoided commenting as stacks are not desirable to my thinking. I would run it out the back as @GeneralDisorder suggested. Out the back is straight forward and functional—

@Keith Knight have you found a CTIS hub seal driver? Or what's your plan?

What special tools do you have or need? We just noticed gear lube coming out the rear axle vent; traced it to the right rear CTIS axle seal, there is gear lube in the banjo bolt =/ Not as big as the front axle job though—

Welcome!

So, all marker, brake, blinker lights, work fine as the headlights alone blink inappropriately? Are all the lights LED, incandescent, or mixed? [edit: I wish I was as smart as @Ronmar}

We are shipping ours to you for autopsy—

And it is still possible that resistor and the R13 under the PDP are both blown which in our experience lit the ABS dash light. When you connect to the diagnostic port does J1939 and J1703 both connect and read? Resistor plug under the PDP Pulled the caps off two burnt out resistors...

Here is a photo of the area with some labeling and another of the box the jumper cuts out of the ECM circuit—

The ABS cycles upon power up. When we were having trouble with the J1939 resistors at power up the ABS light would come on (as it always does), go off while checking the four spots around the truck, (rear, front, rear, front) and then come back on and stay on. Our J1939 resistors were burning...