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I poured some sea foam in the tank and will see if running that through to see if it clears up.

Ok quick question. When shifting from 1st to 2nd there is no issue, but going from 2 to 3rd it bogs the engine down pretty hard. Any suggestions on what can to look at to see why? Granted I haven't gotten her onto the road much more than turning around, so haven't tried 4th gear yet.

I'll bring it into work and have the electricians megger it...thanks for the tip.

Well I won't pretend to understand it, but I installed the new coil (which tested the exact same with a multimeter as the old coil) and she fired right up. Drove it around the property for a bit to test the brakes and they worked beautifully. Next to tackle some of the electrical mess that is...

The new coil came in and I checked the resistance from pos to neg and it is also 12ohms, so makes me think that the old coil isn't bad. I guess next is the cap.

I ran the starter and had a small wire from the coil to the ground. It made for a small spark... nothing to write home about, but it's a spark.

I used my multimeter and tested resistance from the positive to the center point on the coil and got "OL"...same for the center to the negative post. I get 12.4 ohms from the positive to the negative terminal on the coil.

Well I got a chance to swing by to measure..I hope this doesn't mean my coil is bad... edit to remove duplicate photo

That's is another great question..

Luckily I have a spare distributer that came with the truck if it turns out that its bad.

Well...I ain't got no spark. New coil so Don't think that's it. I tried updating to the electronic system instead of the just replacing the points and condenser and that didn't fix it. I pulled the plug and had a friend watch as I turned it over and he verified no spark. @NDT let me know if...

I found the parasitic draw. Previous owner installed a ignition kill switch, that when turned on supplies power to the ignition system. It was his "Security" measure to prevent someone from stealing the truck.

Got the brakes properly bled, went to start it up, and it will turn over but will not start. I pulled one of the sparkplugs and it is dry, so not sure if fuel is getting making it to the cylinders. I turn on the electric fuel pump and see fuel in the filter leading to the carb, so pretty sure...

Oh...I don't believe I have the frame for the actual glass. Mine had plexiglass stuck in the window when it shipped from NC.

I sent you a PM on Monday but didn't see a way to upload the photos...so I will reply here. This the condition of the frame that is on mine. I have no real use for the bottom section of the artic top, so if you are interested let me know.

I changed out the master cylinder and successfully bled the brakes. The pedal no longer smacks the fire wall when pressed. I think I need to bleed them again as there is some sponginess to them. Getting closer to driving to the car wash for a much needed bath and vacuum.

I felt the force calling me here....haha. Yes they lost the top during the transport, but i live in Texas so I was going to try and get a canvas top and frame for the truck anyway, just now, the transport company is paying for the canvas top and frame. :) Nice looking truck btw..

I have to wait for a few sunny days to recharge the battery. My shop is off grid and its been really cloudy these last couple of days so the power system is struggling to keep the lights on.

I managed to get the truck started the other day, but when I turned the switch back to the Off position, the engine kept running. I used the secret "security" switch that the previous owner installed that kills power to the ignition to shut the engine off. So may be an issue in the switch...

So while laying on the floor under the truck and looking at the PTO installed and it appears to power a pump that was installed (I am guessing) by the forest department. There are two square areas of the bed that have been cut out and later welded with flat steel that I assume would connect to...