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in my case also the rear blower is always full blast and the HI/LO switch only controls the front blower

If the valve is like the one depicted in #66, there is no right/wrong way to install it, that is the one I have and it either stop the flow or lets it through.... (or anywhere in between) regardless of the "Direction" you installed it in.

DREDnot, can you give me a link or more specs on that bulb so I can look for it on the internet...? And why does it need to be REVERSE POLARITY....?

ok..... ABOUT SELF-CANCELING ok I do have self-canceling and it works very well, the problem though is when you are going straight (Maybe on a highway) and you decide to shift lane... maybe 2 lanes, you put your turn light and because you never steered hard enough the self-canceling gizmo will...

does anyone know of a turn signal beeper you can adapt to the Humvee turn signal lever or in lu of that, a super bright light so you don drive around like a dumb ass....?

I must say: SUBSTANTIAL IMPROVEMENT in the A/C temperature after installing the valve, also I have to say that previously I had disconnected the servo and manually pushed the little lever all the way forward but realize that it DID not slide all the way even gently forced with players...

I heard on this video on youtube that the guy fried both the Smart Box and Glow Plugs with a battery charger. I did not elaborate but that has me very concerned. Is there some type of battery charger able to do such damage...? (providing the voltage is at 24-28V of course)

I noticed something very similar to that on mine too.

ok so just to let other people know: After installing the valve depicted in Post #58 in line, WHAT A DIFFERENCE !

does that make it a 3/4 OD...? or even 1"...?

do you happen to know the tube diameter so I can buy some clamps...?

or maybe just put this valve inline and shut the valve off.

The Actuator is as forward as it goes now and i have been driving for 30 minutes and nothing, still warm air from the front vents. I have to say thoug that after 30 min it chills somewhat, definitely more than it does for the first 20 min but that is something that consistently happened even...

So based on this new picture/names: Shouldn't I just disconnect the Servo from the Valve Actuator, push the Valve Actuator forward and leave it like that....? If I reconnect the servo isn't that going to push/pull the Valve Actuator...? and if it does not, what is the purpose of re-hooking the...

But if I hook up the servo again, isn't that going to drag the "C" forward and backwards just like it should...?

or even easier: I unhook the servo from the "C" looking hook, push it forward which I believe is the shut off (no flow) position and leave it there. Would that eliminate the heater altogether...? (I don't really need the heater in S. Florida)

I am having the same problem (Hot air in the A/C vent) and my question is: If you just unhook the servo from the "C" looking hook and push it forward and DO NOT hook the servo back, doesn't that close any flow of hot water into the heater and therefore into the A/C duct forever....? (Or at least...

what if I cut the tube in a more convenient place, install the valve in series and shut it off for ever, does that approach have any drawbacks....? (It is easier and faster for me)

Is this the valve I need to replace to avoid hot air coming into my A/C and would I replace it with this....?

sorry.... my bad