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I have been doing a little checking around regarding shocks for the rear of my bobber. She rides like a front end loader (no bed and 395 tires, still playing with air pressures). I used a front suspension system to mount the axle and retained the bottom plate with the shock mount. My thoughts...

Silly...........that is what I was trying to show you!:) I feel your pain, I spent a week searching high and low trying to find those and the wheel studs!

Haltech is who I go thru, the pn is AMG-4. These are the originals used on the FMTV wheels.

Yes, that is one option that I had also looked into. The valve tube is a lot longer though.

These parts are different that what is used on the FMTV wheels.

13/16" I'll clean out my mail box, sorry.

Hi Houston, I can supply the valve stems that you are looking for. I have not chimed in about this because my listing probably belongs in the classifieds but I haven't gotten that far yet. The valve stems that I use are the original FMTV units. What I do is remove all the CTIS equipment and...

Just a thought, you may need to incorporate an angle cut where the block meets the axle. Depending on how far to the rear the axle is mounted, the input flange angle should roughly match the transfer case flange angle. I don't think that the transfer case out put is parallel to the frame...

Check out the "Official Deuce Aftermarket Wheel Thread". I had and solved the same problem that you are wondering about. As far as valve stems go, remove all the CTIS stuff and keep the brass valve stem that goes into the rim. You can fit a standard Schrader valve inside the end of the tube...

See if you can find front deuce spring mounting parts to fit. That is how I did mine. My rear suspension is exactly the same as the front: U bolts, bottom plate with the shock mount, and the top plate that has the bump stop.

Hi, I wanted to share with you all an option that I came up with to activate reverse lights in the Deuce. These can be wired to activate like any vehicle on the road. I used a Single Pole / Double Throw switch (on,off,on switch) to power the activation of a mechanical limiting (proximity)...

NEIOWA, I'm not so sure about your comment. I just picked up an M1022 and have been measuring various containers that I have come accross and they all seem to be the standard ISO's at 8'-6" and my dolly's top pins are 6" too short. I think that they really were designed for the shelters with...

Rob, I'm really sorry. I guess I didn't look closely enough at your picture to see that you had already taken out the inner cylinder. Like Jim said, you can tap out the shaft. I'd go from the delievery side out tward the engine side. The small puck in the middle has to float on the shaft...

That shaft has a very high machining tolerance to the hole it slides into. If you can't move yours then you need to definitly take it out and clean inside the unit further. The shaft should have a perfect gliding feeling with a light coating of diesel, just smooth as silk. To remove the pump...

Those pieces were designed to break, sort of like a safety fuse so the more intricate parts don't become damaged. Rob, you may want to check if that quill shaft sticking out in your picture can spin freely and pump in and out. You can lube it and all the pump parts with diesel fuel. You may...

Thanks for the tip and the helpful pictures! Is 30' a close estimate to the length of the intra dolly cable?

Hi Rob, I ground down the mating edges (where its broken) to form an angle (V notch) to accept weld material. Don't mess with the broken faces and grind too deep because the faces will probably fit back together like broken cookie pieces will inter lock. I used a mig welder on a low to medium...

Hi guys, I just picked up or should I say, saved a beauty of an M1022 from being cut up for scrap! I was wondering if there was anyone out there that may have a couple of parts for these? I am looking for the inter dolly cable NSN 6150101-77-0089 (5300401) it is an 8 pin (7 pin in a circle...

Its already screwed up so what the heck, take it off and open up the IP. That was my mentality. Its not so scary if you look up and read TM 5-6115-584-34, which is available here in the TM menu under generators. There is a fuel return line that comes off the IP and dumps back into the tank...

I forgot to mention, I carefully welded mine back together and ground it to shape. (As well as cleaned up the internal parts of the IP.)