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If you have a faded e-stop button, especially on an 831A from UV damage / sun exposure, you can make it bright red again with a small butane torch. Keep a bit of distance so that you don't char it, and it will turn bright red again! Got the idea from a YT video where they were blasting plastic...

Very cool! Glad this whole thing worked out.

Solar panel mounted to pad via channel strut, and wire protected with 1/2" EMT conduit. IP65 junction box at panel splice. Disregard oil stain on platform. Oil weeping out of the drain plug. Had to open valve with cover on to get tank bulkhead fitting tightened.

NATO plug removed, and replaced with weatherproof SAE jack for solar panel. I used a 4" electrical box blank cover with a 1/2" center KO for mounting the bulkhead plug, and self-taps through the original plug mounting holes in the case. Charge controller riveted to lip in engine compartment...

I generally only change head gaskets, and reuse others that are not torn. I've had very good luck with the Ebay ones.

You can probably Shit, I see used HHO tanks up for sale ALL the time-- some relatively small ones too. A little fitting change on the valve, and it will pair right up to an aux fuel hose. What I dont know is if the head pressure will push fuel through the aux pump without it running-- though...

I had a little time today to play around. My goals were to finish rodent proofing, and install battery straps to keep them from bouncing around since I'm not using giant Optimas (and also have no trays). In the process of installing the straps, I realized that I could get both batteries...

Question. What happens if you run it with no air filter? Next question. Do you have an air compressor? Next time you load test and it starts to stumble, start blasting some air into the filter housing (with filter in). Don't go nuts, just a steady low-force blow. Does it catch back up and stop...

Something else interesting I found, their style nickname is stovepipe. Search ebay for "dialight stovepipe".

This thing I found looks pretty damned close. I know your lens is clear, so this part number should hopefully send you down the right rabbit hole.

I've used this one a few times. It does the trick, and the price is right. I *believe* the factory switch is NC, and opens at 20psi (someone may have to correct me). This switch is NC/NO (3 terminal) 15psi. 5psi in this case, to me, is negligible. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354672471657

If you ever move towards a 48V system, I can't say enough good things about the EG4 Chargeverter.

I'm honestly not sure why that was done. Maybe one of the military guys can chime in. I do know that where it currently is, if the valve were at the fitting like the 803, there wouldn't be enough clearance to pull it out because you need to tip the tank upwards. What's also interesting is that...

While you're pulling the fuel tank, replace the two nitrile bulkhead fittings, pull and clean the contacts on the level sender, and completely clean the inside of the tank-- there's going to be a lot of rusty sandy gunk in there. Probably good measure to replace the fuel return line as well...

Does this also apply to the 831 units?

Without Kurt, my wife would be stuck with a bunch of diesel lawn sculptures. Instead, she's stuck with a bunch of generators.

Do you have pressure in the crankcase, or are you losing any coolant? You can make a manometer out of a flexible clear tube to stick in the dipstick while running. Compression test as recommended by another-- need to figure out what those cylinders are doing.

My overlord will not allow me to run the generator on a Sunday night, so I'll get on it tomorrow afternoon!

Have you tried adjusting the governor droop? The visible smoke is still slightly worrisome to me, as I never see it on units until approaching 100% load, and even then it's very light. Something is still telling me you have a fuel / air problem. I'm going to bump one of my generators on today...

You'll want to check the exhaust manifold itself, not the block. It's not an exact science, but there's a few spots you'll learn to hit at certain angles. The goal is to see what the exhaust gas temperatures of the cylinders are, which can start to tell you if you're starved for fuel or not...