Search results

DOT 5 is what causes the rust problems. Since it does not absorb water, the water that gets into the system, settles to the bottom of wheel cylinders, master cylinder, etc. No amount of bleeding will remove it because the bleed screw is at the top of the wheel cylinder and water is heavier than...

Ford vs GM. Obvious out come. :ROFLMAO:😂

The regulator set point is 14.8. The regulator I included in my kits is a D101HD. Click here for the data sheet.

It was there when I got the truck from the military. I don't remember which tank it is. I'll take a picture next time I'm where the truck is.

My M915A1 has a quick connect air fitting on the tank behind the driver side step that goes up to the walking plate. I put together two male air fittings so I can connect two air hoses to supply air to the truck.

With full vacuum on the transmission, it shifts almost immediately to 3rd gear. That causes the torque converter to slip until the truck is moving fast enough for it lock up. My M1028A2 has high ratio differentials so it shifts to 3rd by 15 mph unless I'm really on the throttle hard. By-passing...

Plug the vacuum hose from the transmission directly into the vacuum pump and see if it shifts. Start in first and manually shift it up. With full vacuum, it should/will go straight to 3rd gear if you put it in drive.

I suggest you check the voltage at each alternator. The regulator set point is 14.8 volts. If both alternators are operating you will see about 28 volts. To determine if the problem is in the alternator, click HERE.

I can't speak of the light bulbs because I have never had mine out. I don't think the type is critical. I would worry more about the plastic cracking than melting. The lights are never on that long.

Probably not, the regulator has to see enough voltage from the trio to turn on and start regulating. Initially, the voltage in the alternator is low and the light is on because it is grounded (not direct ground, there is a resistance) through the regulator. If the idle speed is a little low...

If you unplug the two terminal connector from the regulator, does the light go out?

I have 4 of the Harbor Freight 6 Ton stands that I bought 10 or 12 years ago. They are fine, and feel very solid.

I went thru the same problem with my Deuce. All of the wheel cylinders and metal brake lines were rusted beyond repair from water intrusion. I replaced them and switched to DOT3. DOT3 absorbs water and since the water is suspended in the fluid, you can get it out when you bleed the system.

You do need to add a lubricant. When I was running Jet A in my 7.3 Power Stroke, I put 5 gallons of WVO with 25 gallons of Jet A. Realistically, you probably only need a gallon of VO. I've bought a gallon of Wesson VO at Publix and poured that in when I didn't have any WVO on hand.

Go with the historic vehicle registration if the truck and trailer are just toys. One time fee and a permanent license plate. All of the trucks and trailer I own or have owned have been registered historic.

Click Here

Plus 2 on Mike's chili-mac!

In Florida, the permanent semi trailer tags are for trailers that are pulled by GVW registered tractors. My M915A1 and M393A2 are both registered historic and have permanent antique tags.

That's common. My passenger side alternator is the same and probably has never been rebuilt since the truck only has 28K miles. The driver side I rebuilt a few years ago and the light goes out immediately.

What happens if you increase the RPM slightly by pressing the accelerator before the light is out? Does the light go out immediately?