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There is a dust cover on the backing plate that covers the shoes. Remove this and you can see the shoes from the back. You may find the wedge actuator is stuck. I had one stick on my M929. That will mean pulling that hub/brake drum to get to the brake parts. It's not hard to do and it's all in...

Welcome from Orlando. Good luck with the paperwork shuffle.

RainX the windshield.

Glad to see your town had a parade.

Maybe you mean "lbs" instead of "psi"?

You guys are way overthinking the problem. A couple of tall kitchen trash bags and this, is all you need.

In

Not on mine.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rear-axle-leak.158655/post-1921355 It's easy.

When I pulled the hubs on my M929 there was oil in the hubs also. It had a regular oil seal on the inter hub and did not leak. A member told me that the axles were originally designed as a wet hub. He told me to leave the outer grease seal out, but since it is also the washer for the hub nuts, I...

It's only a problem if the front drive is engaged. Remove the washer from the transfer case shift rod or turn the rod around so the washer doesn't activate the front drive air switch when the transfer case is put in low. You can engage the front drive with the switch on the dash when you need it.

Check the starter first by pulling the wire at the solenoid as J says above. That's the easiest thing to check and is probably the problem. You can just replace the solenoid if the stater bushings and brushes are in good shape.

If you end up pulling the starter. Remove the solenoid and disassemble it. I had a fastener come off in the solenoid on my M929. Easy fix, in my case. You can just change the solenoid if it has a lot of wear or burning on the contacts.

Rain-X.

I towed my M1028A2 home with the rear driveshaft removed (u-joint caps taped on and driveshaft tied up) using my '99 F350. Transmission was in park, transfercase in neutral. Make sure the front locking hubs really are disengaged (pull forward and check the front driveshaft for rotation) because...

Just make sure whoever tests the original alternators puts the tester ground lead on the negative ground post, not the case. Otherwise the alternator will not work.

I'm in for a train ride!

You can probably get it at Napa or other autoparts store. You may have to settle for a red one. The stud and insulator are separate items.

Imagine that. Glad you got it figured out.