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No one seems to have mentioned it yet, but the reason your starter bolt broke is because you were missing the starter brace. Starter brace for the 28MT is GM part number 23502557, available on Amazon. Starter bolt is GM part number 15544950, also available on Amazon.

My studs were a press fit into the rotors as well. I have the same run-out and fit as the original drums had. The original drums were not hub-centric. They rely on a press fit between the stud and the hub/drum on a precision bolt pattern. That same bolt pattern is used to center your trucks...

I have the ruffstuff brackets and did not have any problems with them. My bleeder is also on the top... It looks like you put the calipers on the wrong sides?

As long as your block and crank have not yet cracked you can run up to the governor without any problems. It is governed around 3100 or 3200 RPM.

Running at higher RPM's will also help the weak cranks snap if you have a cracked block getting ready to go... I've done that one before. But if your block is healthy, you will be fine.

I am also running the Hummer 37" radials with a 2" lift and minimal trimming. With 4.10 gears and the 37" tires I can run 65-70 and get 15 mpg unloaded. Drops to 13 mpg hauling a load in the mountains.

I would not run them on a mud truck anyway. They are fairly poor off road tires, geared more for a balance of street/offroad use. But They are cheap. There is a guy over in Tacoma, WA selling them for $125 ea with 90%+ tread.

I am fairly sure it is metric, but don't know the size off hand.

My '83 K20 is up to 260K with no problems on the 6.2L, other than a little low on power. That probably has more to do with the 37" tires and 4.10 gear combo than the motor though. However, the original 700R4 transmission was replaced multiple times before I bought the truck and fixed it with a...

Did you ask them if they will price match the local Napa?

I have had this same problem before and just used a chisel to split the bearing race in half. It will come off easily after that. I was able to do it without damaging the bearing hub or spindle with a little patience. When you destroy the wheel bearing, the inner race will spin and weld itself...

Just takes a long chisel. Just be careful on what you tear up in the process.

Have you corrected the speedometer for the larger tires? If not, that may be the reason you thought your mileage increased with a lift and bigger tires... doesn't help or have anything to do with the slow decline though.

Coarse thread injectors were only used in 1982... pre CUCV. All 6.2L and 6.5L motors from 1983 up use the fine thread injectors and are interchangeable (they thread into the same hole in the head).

The front springs are the same length on all civilian & military trucks, 49" long IIRC. When it comes to the rear, 52 and 56" springs were both used. 52" is standard on most 1/2 tons 56 is standard on most 3/4 and 1 ton trucks... but I say most. It is always best to measure because there are...

The ones I have worked with and seen online in the past, had a built in pin on the bottom side (just like a lift block). It was not the same version as the link you posted, but it has been a long time since I looked one up so I don't know if they still make them like that. Either that or CRS is...

That would be the correct kit for the 10 bolt, but that is extremely over priced (for me)! For $350 I would upgrade the 10 bolts to 3/4 ton axles and add disc brakes to the 14FF. Unfortunately, I just checked ruffstuff and didn't see a 10/12 bolt bracket though (they sell the 14FF brackets for...

Was this on a Dana 70 or 14FF? My truck has a 3/4 ton 14FF in the rear (replaced the stock 14SF). The front 3/4 ton rotors use a 9/16" stud and so do the rear 3/4 and 1 ton 14FF's. I don't remember what the dually D70 rear axles use off of the top of my head. But if he keeps the 6 lug 10 bolt...

Sure, what do you want to know? Did you look through the pics yet? I would rather post the info here so others can get the info as well. Here is a link to the pics: Picasa Web Albums - Kenneth - 1983 Chevy K20 Link to the $45 brackets from Ruffstuff (contact Gravel Maker on CK5 for the...

The last 2" add a leaf I removed from a truck (and most I have seen for sale on parts websites) were not designed to bolt into the spring pack. It just stacked in between the axle and stock leaf pack. Also, the longer leaf acts as an overload spring and stiffens up the ride where the zero-rate...