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The initial WOT issue was after nothing but brake work and a flame heater delete. I didn’t change the o ring until I started troubleshooting and pulled the fuel rod. Only changed it because I was in there already and it was in bad shape. Still had WOT after everything went back together. At...
So fingers crossed I think I’ve got it squared away. After scouring the depths of the internet I came across this video. I changed the o ring when I cleaned the fuel rod and ran the screws on the bridge back in tight. I didn’t realize that the fuel rod floats when the truck is running and...
Everything seems to be moving freely. Fuel shutoff lever, the linkage under the FDC, and the throttle linkage. Throttle return spring looks good. I’ll take a look at the turbo outlet today to be sure. My thinking, and I definitely could be wrong, is that’s it’s gotta be on the fuel side...
70 continental multi fuel. Went to start after sitting for a week or two for some brake work and a flame heater delete and it’s going straight to 2000 + rpm’s. Did a bunch of searching/reading and so far have pulled the fuel shutoff cover and the actual rod itself. Checked and lubed the...
I think alot depends on what you want. I think for me it would be a late model Air Force truck, even though it would be tough to register in CT. If we're talking about more than M35s then I'd say an M108 wrecker with a M342a2 coming in a close second.
cranetruck, Yes by slow starting I mean that the truck takes 10+ seconds of cranking and you have to work the throttle to get it to catch. I've read alot of people on here say how fast their trucks start which is what lead me to believe that my truck may be in need of some PM. Changing out the...
How would I go about checking out the IP head? I just did some reading that suggested that advancing the timing may lead to shorter engine life so I think I'd rather avoid that.
Thanks
Does anyone else think that advancing the timing might help? I looked in the TM and it looks like a big project. Can it even be done without pulling the radiator? I'm going to check the pump timing tomorrow if I can get a break in the rain. Any other suggestions? I'll also start it a few...
The original overflow valve looked ok to me. I took it apart and everything seemed clean inside. No signs of anything that would cause it to stick. I'll take a look at advancing the timing.
Thanks for the replies.
Ok here's the pics, hope they work. I'm not sure if its just the angle but it looks a little off to me. I'm not really sure how close is close enough though.
thanks
Ok just took a look at it. It looks to me like the timing might be slightly off. Its hard to tell because I can't really get a straight on look at it. I'll try to get a real pic of it tomorrow. I made up a little drawing in paint of what it looks like. The pointer doesn't look centered on...
Changed out the overflow valve last night. The truck does start much faster when warmed up. Went out tonight to see how it did when cold and it does start faster but still requires some throttle to get the motor to catch. The fuel pressure at 800 rpm's went up from 40 PSI to about 45 PSI, but...
As far as the EGT's I'm not sure as I've yet to install a pyro. Ordered a overflow valve from Memphis and it should be here tuesday. I'll report back after I swap them out.
Thanks
I normally start it with the accelarator slightly depressed until it starts to fire and then let off so it can build oil pressure. Even when doing this it still needs to crank for 10 seconds or more before it fires. After the truck has been started and warms up it will restart quickly for the...
Just checked it out with a pressure gauge and the results were:
5 PSI with motor off with electric pump running
40 PSI at about 800 RPMs
75 PSI at full throttle
While cranking I'm only showing about 5 PSI and it drops off as soon as the motor is shut down. Back to 5 and then to 0 when the...