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Perhaps it could, if you used the keyed switch to provide a ground for a relay, and the relay interrupts the load. The relay would have to be pretty heavy duty, so maybe a solenoid instead.

I used a keyed switch that merely interrupts the neutral safety switch. The stock start switch is retained in place, and the keyed switch is mounted on the ledge under the heater switches (key UP configuration), so it's sort of hidden, but mostly to retain the military look. That was not an...

The antenna works great, good SWR and good signal reports on VHF and UHF. The supply on these seems to have dried up, I haven't seen one for sale, even at current gouging prices, in quite a while. Good luck building one if you go that route, I have yet to see one that looks right. I don't...

To clarify: my 802 is lag-bolted to the wood blocks only. There is no positive connection between the blocks and the pad. When I poured the pad I installed four j-bolts to match the four holes in the 802 (not an easy feat). After I discovered the results of having it bolted directly to the...

I tried bolting mine down and the vibration of the generator was amplified by the slab and vibrating the whole house. Of course my slab was not very thick and only a little bigger than the footprint of the 802. So I moved the generator forward a few inches and used the j-bolts in the concrete...

You might try contacting Blue Ox (facebook account) and see where he's getting his. He ships two out on every HMMWV top he makes.

Working unit - I have a 10/11/12 meter radio I will be installing in the M1165 and don't want to use a commercial antenna.

Still

Not all contribution is monetary; and everyone in here is a contributor. ;) I learn from monetary contributors as well as I do from content contributors.

Welcome from Kitsap Co. Is it from San Yermo? I would strongly suggest that you have it shipped from the auction yard to Retired War Horses and let Steven give it the once-over. Yeah, it'll add to the expense up front but it'll save you more money in the future. You don't need to have him...

He can't; he's on double secret probation.

As sure as I can be. The Marines gave it up with 5500 miles on the clock, so unless they swapped in an unreal light switch, it's gotta be factory.

After changing to all LEDs I have the following: With the switch in STOP LIGHT everything works as normal; turn signals flash as they should. With the switch in SER DRIVE the headlights are on but the turn signals do not flash. I've tried a regular filament bulb and an LED bulb in the turn...

Took the cat off for ... servicing. No major drama but the bent wrench was necessary for at least one of the flange bolts. Spent two hours trying to get the forward heat shield [#11] back on without luck. I should have taken a picture before I removed it and the manual only tells you to...

I wouldn't drink that if it were free; total hypocrites.

The torquing is twice as worse as it is for the 12-bolt wheels. :LOL:

The word you're looking for is brake, not break. It will matter more in the future when someone is doing a keyword search on the site for the same problem you describe. ;)

Scroll down the HMMWV forum page ever so slightly and there's a whole thread on that very topic.

I threw down a low bid on a non-running MEP-802A genset based on the video of the guy trying to start it. The pictures showed the dead-crank switch in the OFF position, and his vibe seemed to be one of indifference, like, "I'm going to rotate this switch and if it starts I'll be surprised"...

Ahem, it's not on the wheel, it's on the hub. Sorry, mild OCD here... :(