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The reason I posted this on the last page wasn't to use it with their batteries, but to use it with the 24V in the truck.

If you paint some towbars in greenscreen green, you can connect a dozen non-runners to one that does, and in editing they can make it look like they're all just driving very close together.

When you're solo, the engine hoist helps with getting the hood off safely, as well as pulling the rad out once it's loose. I did not pull the big fiberglass tub, just unscrewed the rad from it and left it in place. I think the manual wants you to pull the tub and rad as one unit. I should...

I did not. I capped the hard-lines and the hoses as soon as they were disconnected. Topped up the fluids after.

I pulled mine to get the radiator out to take it to a radiator guy for repair. It's a lot of work, but not too bad. I did it by myself. If you do end up pulling the stack, stop at Harbor Freight and pick up some of these.

Somewhere there's a farmer who has a barn, and in that barn is one of these being used as a big table. I just have to find that farmer...

Reminds me on mine, except your wires aren't burnt. Crawl under and look up.

You never said what you wanted a picture of, and I don't know what a turret hatch latch is, so here's the ones I did get.

Some easier than others. One of the vehicles has zip-ties around the door handles, holding the doors latched closed. They do that if the hinges are suspect, because if you open one of those doors and the door comes off- you'll need an ambulance. Two are open the last time I was there. Let me...

The general consensus is the keyed switches destroy the start box, which is an expensive repair. There are better options.

Uh, you know they don't have keys right? ;)

New additions to the DRMO yard.

The last thing you did before it died seems like it involved that slave port. Take it out.

The AC Delco ones I got from a supposedly reputable dealer were individually boxed, and 10mm. The 10mm ones build character because you get to do the job again in a few months or less; the turbo trucks with the 400amp alternators build exponentially more character than the NA trucks. :mad:

Call Retired Warhorses - I think he does these sorts of orders.

If they're loose you can always try putting the tool on them and giving an extra squeeze to see if they'll tighten up.

The dilemma: Buy an east coast M1009 and save on shipping, spend the money instead on fixing all the body rot... Buy a west coast M1009 and spend $1500 or so on shipping, but the body is still all there... I just sold off my M1009 a couple months ago. The body was still 100% Good luck!

Well, to wrap up the wiper problem, here's the epilogue. As you recall, I was driving along and lost the gauges, wipers, and the transmission went into limp mode. An automatic circuit breaker was cycling under the dash - trying to repower everything but finding a dead short to ground it would...

I checked for continuity between the two wires that connect to the wiper switch and ground, and there was no direct short, so I hope that isn't the issue. It seems odd to me that a motor would have a dead short like that, so I'm not entirely convinced it is the motor. My experience is that...

Most Flight Engineer stories begin, "There we were, flying along all fat dumb and happy, when [insert problem or near-death experience]..." Well, there I was driving along the highway all fat dumb and happy when the wipers and gauges quit. I was creeping in traffic at the time and didn't...