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My batteries are 10 years old so I'm due!

Yeah K10s are 52" where K20/30 are 56". Don't want to get into the half ton stuff.

Yep saw that awhile back as well. I think I saw it on a square body FB page that I used to be part of that I left a short while afterwards.

Thanks Skinny. That's what I'm after. Front springs are easy ride and came with the lift. Need to address the rear and finally put the zero rates in the back. Any memories of specifics like spring load capacity etc?

Wow it's been a long time since I've been on here. Been driving my 1008 for 10 years with absolutely no major trouble. The other day I noticed that one of the leaves in the back spring is broken in two places. The truck has in had an ORD lift in it for many years but uses the factory rear...

I believe you are thinking about the confusing C6P rpo code. Supposedly some of the civi square bodies from 80 to 87 had slightly thicker frame metal. I've also read that crew cabs have the thickest frame. The more I look into things like this the more confused I am though LOL.

I could use it for sure!

Good information. Any idea on how many teeth the transfer case drive gears they used? I'd sure like to figure out how to get rid of that adapter and get close on the speedometer for my truck with 4.56 and 37" tires.

From what I understand it is not just the CUCV that uses these. They make under driven and overdriven adapters that compensate for gear ratios. My speedometer reads 10 mph high. When I put my 37s on I swapped the transmission driven gear out with some extras I had until I got close. I don't know...

Probably been covered before but why can't we bypass the adapter again?

I know I still have my same 1008 and speedo still has issues. I swapped gears to where it was fairly accurate back then but since that time it has gotten to the point of being 10mph high at highway speeds.

There is a huge thread on putting a 6.5 turbo setup onto these trucks. Lots of photos, tips and tricks. I did it 7 years ago with a stock 6.5 set up onto my 6.2. agree with everyone else, if you are confident in building it in the first place you should be more than confident putting the turbo...

No better time for a pair of new batteries!

No not yet but thanks. Just got it running. Probably due for a fresh filter anyway as I've never changed it lol.

Worked out well, thanks for asking. Replaced links, charged batteries and fired it up. No generator lights on now. Just filled the tank with winter grade fuel and additive which was what started the issue. Couldn't light the gel and was jumping it off my car and cranking for awhile.

Thank you. 12 gauge it is. Largest I could find I town was 14 gauge. Summit has 12 gauge and it came will be here tomorrow. They're great.

I need to replace the alternator fusible Links at the dimond shaped firewall block. They are blue. I've gone through a few searches but I'm just trying to verify that they are 12 gauge links. Having a very hard time finding that size anywhere around town. Thanks.

Yes indeed on unhooking the mounts. I couldn't get the manifold bolts in without doing it.

Trust me, without the upgrade that circuit is still overloaded.

Old thread but I FINALLY installed the LMC harness upgrade this summer. Why did it take me so long??? Not only is it nice to not lose your headlights while booking down a back road on a black night, but to have your brake lights and turn signals work every time you need them? BONUS!