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Correct on the cable. That was added to keep the transfer case fron going into the fuel tank during a collision. When vehicle becomes a parts donor, you take the parts you need out the easiest way. If the belt is in the way, cutting it is the fastest way. Also keeps anyone from trying to drive...

If it is unburnt diesel, it will have a very distinct burning "paint thinner / diesel" smell. Loss of power on acceleration could be bad fuel delivery to the injection pump. Any chance you got some bad diesel?

I had a bad cold advance thermostat, shorting out intermittently, causing the pump to advance. It accelerated the truck, but not like a rocket. Definitely a strange feeling though. Disconnect the cold advance wire on your pump, and see if the problem goes away.

It has been re-manufactured. M1097A2R.pdf (amgeneral.com)

Pull a glow plug and see if it is wet with diesel. Are your plugs working? I doubt it's the fuel quality, unless it has water in it. If it resembles diesel, it will most likely work, even if it's old. If your IP is working, you will get about a drop when you crack the line and crank the engine...

Do a search for this. 1156 Ba15s 24V . Just make sure the result shows 24 volts, and the lenght fits.

HPG shows them in stock. 5740654 / 01-189-2141 5315-01-189-2141 - PIN, CAM ADVANCE | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG) The question now is, what produced enough force to shear it off? Was it an anomaly, or is that problem still lurking in the pump?

Blown fuse or disconnected wire. Do you have a voltmeter or 24 volt test light? I would start working my way back from the marker light, and see where the voltage gets lost? Could be an open ground, or open positive. Do you have access to the wiring diagrams in the TM?

Before you pull the IP - do you have any bore scope you could use to look into the fuel inlet of the IP to see if it's clear. Also, after all the disassembly work, you most likely have air in the injector lines. I would keep looking into the fuel supply into the IP before pulling it (major...

"It fired right up and then died". That tells me the pump did inject some fuel, and then the problem started. Was the housing full of fuel when you pulled the cover? Any chance something is plugging the inlet to the DB2? Fill up the pump housing with clean diesel, put the cover back on, and...

Crack open one or more injector lines, and crank it like you said. See if anything comes out. My thoughts - Dead fuel shutoff solenoid? No power to fuel solenoid? Put your hand on the solenoid housing and have someone turn the switch on and off (not start), you should be able to fee the click...

Look at the small table on the bottom of this page. HPG gives some good cross references. If you can, press the new seal in, don't "Hammer" it in. Not sure if this is the 10K or 12K, but it's a start. 5590745 / 01-180-9099 5330-01-180-9099 - SEAL, GEARED HUB (INPUT) {1 PIECE} [AMG] | Hummer...

I have 214,000 miles on that '95 crappy 6.5 engine. Still runs great. Only thing ever replaced were the glow plugs and oil pressure sender.

This must be the training movie for the guys at Yermo, before they sell them to us.

Did the old lights work before you replaced them? Could be a problem in the blinker switch. When you blink right, you are opening the normal brake / hazard circuit, and routing it through the flasher. Measure your voltage at the light while braking, and while blinking.

Looking at the gauges, that looks low on refrigerant, if the compressor is running. You still have an electrical problem though. Instead of a meter, I would rig up a 24 volt lightbulb with long wires on it (solder the wires to the bulb if you don't have a socket) and use that for trouble...

My 2 cents. If you are getting enough pressure to move the tires when you rev the engine, then your pump is not putting out enough when at idle. Could be a bad pump, or leaking relief valve. Does the Hydroboost work ok? What happens when you pump the brakes while at idle? Are all the high...

Could be bio sludge. Several years ago I was in Wyoming, and filled up at a Safeway in Laramie (apparently you get what you pay for). As I was driving over a 9000+ foot back roads pass towards Colorado, the engine started sputtering, and I could barely keep it running, by keeping the pedal on...

I would match the hose to the hard line. Using a hose that is too large will cause too much deformation and stress in the rubber when tightening down the hose clamp to get a good seal. That will lead to an earlier failure of the hose.

I would almost bet "they" bent the rod ends wide open, and just pushed in the wrong ends, then clamped the hell out of them. No worries about cross threading anything, just "compression fit" everything. Curious, what did the threads look like after you got them apart?