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Just to be clearer about why I would consider this:
I’m a huge fan of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I just happen to be in the weird position of considering whether I need or can justify a 200 amp alternator. I have already purchased the components for a solar system and like the idea...
Tennmogger,
I will most likely have two battery banks, one with just 2 batteries and the other with 8, so I will just run the laughable 12v draw through a cheap buck converter. The radio (and possibly the gauges) wont pull enough amperage to justify a Vanner and the big bank will probably have...
People have done it for various reasons. I didn't want to ask each of the people that mentioned doing/have done individually so I asked the group. I want to do it to simplify things especially for camper battery bank and If I the first two ways are incorrect and I need to buy a different...
Hello all,
Its summer time so back to it…
I’m interested in switching to only having a 24 volt system. I know others have done this or have planned on doing this while others bought their trucks already this way so I know it’s doable. For the radio, trailer controller and a couple of 12v...
Also check the alternator mount bracket and the alternator to make sure they "mate" together. Mine had a similar problem and the mechanic said the mount had a cup to it that caused the alternator to work itself loose. That's where the problem started for me.
Thanks Suprman,
Great, not on mine or it's stuck open. Either drain will empty both un-restricted. So now I have to find one of those. Do you know which tank fills the other (or the opposite which tank is checked)?
Hi all,
Another week, another question.
I relocated my air tanks (and batteries). I was extremely diligent at marking and labeling what connection goes where. Its connected the way it was before. But, now that I look at it I am just baffled! It makes no sense to me.
From the wet tank...
Ok, I’m going to try to answer this but wait until someone confirms it accurate. I’m not a mechanic.
No matter what, to release the clutch you need both air and power.
No power = locked fan
No air = locked fan
If everything is working properly (temp switch, clutch, solenoid):
1) Start...
I'm still several weeks away from road testing my truck so it may be awhile before I get to testing this. I was hoping not to have to "re-invent the wheel" and hoped someone already knows the correct setting.
Hi all,
Has anybody swapped differentials on a 3116 (non electronic) and then corrected the speedometer? According to the (TM 9-2320-365-20-1) (page 2-344.1) the speedometers should be able to be corrected by simply setting the Dip switches. Its probably similar to the instructions in the...
Wow Suprman, your one of those early risers! If it's really there just as insurance for incorrect hook ups then its one less thing to mount and one less thing to go wrong. Now I am considering deleting it.
My truck is a 1994. It has the mechanical Cat 3116 engine. IDK, but I think the only computer diagnostic port would be for the transmission. I'm not all that concerned about the ICE diagnostics port any way but I don't want to cause problems somewhere else.
My truck is a 1994. It has the mechanical Cat 3116 engine. IDK, but I think the only computer diagnostic port would be for the transmission. I'm not all that concerned about the ICE diagnostics port any way but I don't want to cause problems somewhere else.
As far as the polarity box is concerned I was planning on using it. I don't really see a reason either way, but I didn't really consider deleting it. Is there a reason why I should keep it or remove it. Does it cause problems?
I am planning to add a solar system to the truck and was considering connecting the batteries for that via battery switches (one for the 24v and another for the 12v) so I could use either the 'truck' and/or the van batteries to start/run the truck. However, the main reason would be so I could...