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The next time you need to pick up something from Albany let me know. I live and work near there and pick up and store things for people as a favor to avoid these issues. I have a facility in Albany with a forklift to load and unload. My experience there has been good but driving long distance...

The gaskets you used are the old style with separate fire rings. They tend to give problems and were upgraded to the new style ones. For the TD block (thick deck) you should have torqued the head nuts to 157FtLbs.

Ok I was waiting to see if anyone else would respond but none did. I have rebuilt many rears but have not done a 14 bolt unit. I did some research and they use a crush sleeve to set the pinion bearing preload. Putting the nut back at the same location is to keep the preload the same. That's...

Just a thought are you sure you have the hydraulic head in time? It could be out 180 degrees. With the engine on the firing stroke of #1 cylinder and the balancer timing mark on the correct mark the pump should be in time and the marked tooth on the head visible.

I would pass on that. Its too much work to install for marginal parts.

The fire rings are integral in the gasket. No sealer is used you install dry. You need to make sure the heads are flat and the block is clean. No re- torque is necessary. The torque on the studs depends if you have a TD block. That stands for thick deck. Those torque to 157 ft lbs. I used ARP...

No that is the old style ones. The newer ones are black and don’t have those slots

I would not get too concerned about the .005" limit. Focus on getting the seal area for the combustion chamber to clean up. The last set I had done we took off .010" didn't cause any issues. The valves still had some recess. Eddie

You probably need to put some heat on the fittings to help break loose the thread sealant. Sometimes the fittings bond in fairly hard and the heat helps to free things up.

You need to bleed the air pack to master cylinder first then move to the wheel cylinders.

If your EGT got to 1300*F post turbo that's hot. Most set 1300 as an upper limit Pre Turbo.

More than likely the fuel shutoff lever is sticking. Pull the shutoff cover that's where the cable for the shutoff is connected. There is a lever there that moves forward and back. Forward is wide open and back towards the firewall is shutoff. It should move freely and when released it should...

At .820" diameter the closest thread would be metric at 20MM. You should be able to cut a M20 thread on that.

Rusty, If he installed the pump 180 degree's out of time do you think it would start? Not sure what else could have gone wrong here. Eddie

So when will we find out the new location?

So when we going to finish the blasting work?

Its not missing a bolt. That is the drain plug hole for the clutch area.. Next to it is a removable plug that you can put in that hole for fording high water. It should remain open otherwise.

Firestone T831 got them on my truck.

I would pull the radiator and have it cleaned. The tubes are probably partially blocked limiting the cooling capacity.

The twist shows it has already stressed to the yield point so it needs replacing.