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Does anyone happen to know if the fuel tank needs to be removed to remove the rear bumper brackets on an M1009? I am thinking about making my own bumper but would need to remove all the original components. Thanks!:D
My GEN 1 light has finally started acting funny. I have the cluster apart so I can really get up close and look at the bulb. Usually it's very VERY dimly lit constantly (gen 1) when the vehicle is running (m1009). However lately I noticed the light has gotten brighter and brighter over the last...
Something I've noticed on my M1009 since I've owned it but never really figured out was whenever I get a belt for the drive alt (yes, with the correct part numbers found pinned here) it always requires me maxing out the tensions capabilities of the alternator bolt slot on the bracket, and it's...
The Stray voltage occurs either when the headlights are on, on the 2nd Notch of the headlight plunger, or when pressing the brakes. Thus, I have sort of determined that the short must be occurring on the harness that goes to the back of the vehicle. However, I I peeled back the insulation and...
So here is what's up. My damper is good, I even had another gauge to spare and it's good too. Here's my final verdict. I disconnected the sender wire on top of the fuel tank completely, and kept the ground on. When measuring VOLTAGE between the ground and sender terminal, I get 0V as it should...
To anyone reading this post, I am going to be giving my final update before I will have to take a new course of action. I cut the ground pin on the cluster pigtail for the fuel gauge and measured it directly as to not get any interference. Turns out it was also getting energized from the pigtail...
Well everyone, I have another update. So I was wrong about the fuse block as was predicted by "dependable". However I saw some crazy stuff in there. Aluminum oxide grains everywhere. But not enough to create a short. Instead what I discovered was the black wire on what I think was pin 18 is the...
I know what you mean, but keep in mind, the problem is that I'm having the same mis readings even from the pigtail itself that goes directly behind the cluster and supplies the cluster all the information that displays on the gauges... So, the problem stems deeper than that, but definitely after...
Before I start really ripping it all apart. I want to make sure I'm just not missing something. So on the gauge cluster there are 3 terminals for the fuel gauge. The bottom one is a ground. And the top left one is 12V source. And if I am not mistaken, the top right terminal is solely the...
I should have been more descriptive. The shmoo was mostly dirt and debris along with the grease. I applied a generous amount afterwards. Still no change. When I measured for resistance at the terminal on the firewall directly, it's stayed consistent despite keying on the ignition and whatnot...
Well here is an update. The sending wire from the pigtail from behind the gauge cluster more or less is right on when everything is off. However I realized that when you measure voltage, it actually receives 1V from somewhere and that's what's messing it up. Still no idea how though... I peeled...
I thought about that, but shouldn't the resistance wire be completely independent of all voltage sources? If it reads correctly with the vehicle off, it should also read correctly with it on right?
Howdy all,
I have been dealing with a fuel gauge problem for some time now and I have a bunch of details to share, so please hear me out.
The problem:
- Fuel gauge floats around, sometimes reading correctly, sometimes not, never pegged full or empty
- Took cluster apart and removed all...
Awesome! Thanks! But one more thing. I saw that for a similar price you can get them NOS https://equipmentpartssales.mysimplestore.com/products/m1008-m1009-master-cylinder-brake-booster-assembly-2770317-2530-01-154-1294-nos
My concern however would be due to the age of the booster, can the...