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So rereading everything again and again we had cleaned that "T" after ip but maybe not a good enough job. We are going to reclean the lines and glass ball and spring as Ray 70 suggested as now I do think this is the culprit and will do Monday again and let you know when done. as makes sense...
Here is what I had put in aftermarket cost me about $260.00 dollars for parts only. anyone else use these? Congrats on your fix great job.
1 ea.
AFM500 AUTO FLASHING MODULE for Voltage Regulators
$128.52
1 ea.
VR648-A Voltage Regulator replaces VR648, Model 348 AVR
$129.00
Still working on this thing haven't given up replaced the amp meter and while at electrical shop had it of course still wouldn't keep running as still the same problem but.......I went and tried to start and whala it started they came running our what did you do etc...... It wasn't what I did...
Sorry about the former posts every time I went to look at diagram it posted and wasn't ready for primetime as I wanted to digest things ugh...... if it wasn't so frustrating it be funny ....hell it is funny what a dummy again you guys must think I'm and idiot wonder you help me at all but much...
Great insightful we will give it a try ...... but guess I don't understand as I read in the TM specs 6-7psi but you say gravity flow, when the fuel tank is below
boy oh boy I'm getting to complacent in my old age I'm looking at the
Man o man I'm just not back to normal yet ugh wasn't getting...
yep I was reading the tm before and was tired and must of slipped on the computer and moved the page without noticing (at least that's my excuse ..ha) and gotten on the j37 plug and just saw the reset button below it and it did not set off bells and whistles with me like it should have ugh as I...
yep okay will start looking at fuel supply no ether bottle don't like the stuff in an engine unless a very last resort and sparingly and while engine cranking. Thanks for your help Kudos and let you know final outcome hopefully or more questions ....Thanks again
Grandson still here so we were able to check with the engine running and battle short on ...... we had 24v during and after ....... so this points to a fuel line blockage ? Since the fuel pump sounds like it primes clicking that would put the blockage between the fuel pump and the filter as we...
Well got it done and it does have 24v while running but when gen dies so does the voltage also checked in Battle Short mode and it has 24v full time when not running and switch is on lastly the clicking starts off fast and then quickly slows down
yes when battle switch is on only time we hear or feel pump running and yes it does click maybe one a second not near as fast as when we had the fuel line off before filter and then tried it ... Thanks for your help felt like a big dummy on the oil dip stick this thing only has 99 hrs on it fyi
okay here we are of course a little thing will get you and you had mentioned about two scales on dipstick the one side showed full the other just at the add mark so we added oil to bring to the full on both sides and that took care of the light but still wont run does the same thing so...
Okay Thank you very much we will triple check everything again and get an additional gauge for the oil on it just to make sure as you suggest .......I think the low oil pressure light is lit as soon as you power the control panel if that helps and stays lit while trying to start fyi Thanks again
Replaced the TRC Watt Transducer converter the one behind the panel as it was leaking # 10086. It worked great before I replaced it but sitting for six months and doing some maitenance on it and found those two things the injector pump inspection seals replace and the transducer watt...
Ran fine before except hz fluctuated some found inspections seals leaking on injector pump and changed them then found transducer leaking and put a new one in ...now it will run only ten seconds and shut off. The low oil pressure sensor light on the panel is lit but the oil gage is showing 30lb...