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  1. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    A nutsert could be used for the third bolt, I'd think. Anyway, the purpose of a larger spacer would be to get some stability in the "tripod" setup that is now a bipod.
  2. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    You may want to install the third bolt, too. Or make a substantially larger spacer setup.
  3. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Not necessarily. I've been chasing air leaks for a while now (not on a CUCV) and found that using a temporary electric fuel pump is quite helpful when it comes to finding them. And associated problems in the fuel system. When under pressure, an air leak can become a fuel leak which is much...
  4. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    It's not fuel leaking out that is the problem, it's air leaking in.
  5. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    That's the drain from the filter, for when bleeding the system. You may have a not fully closed valve if there's diesel at the end of that hose.
  6. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    I'm in complete agreement with you, for once. The first year I hit a yellow jacket (the ground dwelling ones) nest with the weed whacker I looked like the Michelin man for a few weeks afterwards. Learned that one could either become immune, or get allergic, as a result. The next year, after...
  7. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    No good repair ever goes completely unpunished.
  8. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    I was wondering about that possibility. I've got maybe eight of those really cheap HF meters, and they all seem to be accurate - and one which was dead on arrival. Can't whine too much when they're free with a coupon, which is how I get them.
  9. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Definitely a step in the right direction, but 15.5 Volts is just shy of the 15.6 that is "rapid charge" for an Optima. You may want to play around with the system until you get the voltage down to 15.0. Then again, those poor Optimas may take a while to recuperate from the extreme overcharging...
  10. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Yeah, after re-reading your post I realized that you probably meant alternator. Sorry.
  11. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Well, most importantly, the 20 Volt charge is not because of the dual batteries. The 20 Volts in (what appears to be) a 12 Volt system is due to it being charged with 24 Volts. As far as the wiring goes, it'll be happier with a higher voltage as it means being subjected to less amperage for a...
  12. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Spent the day driving to Denver, picking up affordable wheels and a 12-inch bucket for the FLU419. I'll try to regain some thinking capacity tomorrow. Can't believe that nobody with intimate knowledge of this stuff (of which there seems to be many on the CUCV threads) has chimed in. Between you...
  13. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Since the Volt meter in an M1008 isn't showing numbers, I don't know what the actual voltage is when turning the engine over while the glow plugs are on. But I do know that it shows a little bit higher than the meter (still 24 Volt) in my converted M1009 did at full charge. In both cases, the...
  14. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    They likely would, but slowly. Unfortunately, your batteries are not at the 12.7 Volts they should be (if fully charged) so in that sense you have what amounts to a poorly charged 24 Volt setup, which probably would start. Maybe you actually have a 12 Volt conversion, but it's still being fed 24...
  15. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Admittedly, I don't remember if you have two alternators or not, but from the readings on your Volt meter it looks like you do. Or your one alternator is seriously over charging. Either way, my main concern would be to stop that over charge and worry about what voltage the starter is later...
  16. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    I'm going on (bad) memory here, but there's very little that is on 24 Volts on a CUCV. Actually, I think the starter is it. Oh, and the Volt meter. When I converted an M1009 to 12 Volts, all I remember doing was changing the starter and removing one alternator. There was a bit more to the...
  17. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    It'd be quicker to hook the batteries up in series, wouldn't it? Then, if they have indeed survived intact, you can buy a 12 Volt starter and begin the conversion process. And if you do change the battery wiring, do make sure that all the leads are where they're supposed to be. Otherwise you can...
  18. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Sounds to me like you're running a 24 Volt system, but have the batteries hooked up for 12 Volt. You're having 16 Volts on an Optima at rest which is one too many for when it's charging. If my guess is correct, wire those batteries in series before they're cooked.
  19. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    The easiest would probably be to drive it one winter where they use salt or other evil chemicals on the roads.
  20. The FLU farm

    Jeeperjoe's build thread

    Shouldn't take much to kick those dents out. You're not about to paint it show quality black, are you?
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