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I always found that style of troubleshooting a little arrogant. Oh there can be nothing wrong with our controller.., if the wiring is good and 5v source power is making it to the pressure sensor and it doesnt work it must be a bad sensor, instead of actually probing the line to see what the...

If the wet tank pressure sw is operating properly, closed above ~117, open below ~89, I would not call the pressure sensor bad untill I confirmed its input and output. The pressure sensor gets ground and 5V input from the controller on 2 of its wires(pins C and B respectively). and outputs a...

No ABS on the A0…

You were able to work the solenoids using the jumpers right, so they are probably OK. The best test for the wet tank switch is at the CTIS controller connector. When the tank goes over 117 PSI you snould see it close and complete a low resistance circuit between pin T in the connector and...

125 PSI is the setpoint specced in the manual…

The dump valves, when dumping tire air out the vent also feed back a little air toward the PCU. If you close control and pressurized the system, then started a deflate by jumping to the deflate pin and then disconnected that, the dump valves will continue to vent, but the pressure in the now...

If loosening that line from the PCU cover/case to the floors stopped the tire deflate, then that vent line to the floor is clogged… that vent must be unobstructed to atmosphere. The gentleman I helped a few days ago has an Acella, with a deep water fording package. they connected the lower...

Ok, i just helped someone with this same issue, the system deflated all the tires, out in the middle of nowhere… it was a clogged vent… like I described in the deflate cycle, control seals the PCU, then supply pressurizes it, then deflate connects the PCU to a 6.5PSI relief that drops the PCU...

@Freedom Land Clearing Here are the pins in the controller to remote control/test the PCU and look for leaks Using a pair of jumpers.

If I worked on them everyday, having the interface would be handy, but for a basic DIY troubleshoot, it is just as easy to jump the pins to control the PCU and test valve function and pressurize the system to look for leaks. Leaks are the usual issue with CTIs anyway… You can probe the sensor...

Well it wasnt wrong, you did indeed have a issue with the wet tank switch circuit, not enough airpressure to close it:) That has been a fairly common CTIS issue, low governor setpoint... i dont recall if it causes 5 flash though, did yours?

different harnesses in different vehicles has been documented. I think Sean even covered it in a video. The A1 wiring diagram shows this with 3 power inputs, an some being listed as "optional" which indicates some sort of option:) at any rate his appears to be configured at least like the A0...

Ok, now I am tracking. You can control the 3 solenoid valves and the pcu function with a pair of jumper wires at the controller connector. Pin H should have 24V with the switch on. Pin R feeds the control solenoid. Pin B feeds the air supply solenoid. Pin C feeds the deflate solenoid...

So when you say no bursts of air at port "C", What exactly are you identifying as port C? The port on the side of the plastic cover?

I was mistaken. L is not listed on any documentation I have. H, M, Z are the indicated power inputs, shown in the manuals. Those 3 pins would give you 7 possible configurations to control programming. It shows H and Z connected on the 1078A0 manual.

Yea the wire pin z was twisted with is probably ultimately connected to H. If so it will have 24v on it with switch on. It was probably the wire L was originally connected to. I will have to lookup what L is used for this afternoon to confirm, but on the 1078 schematic I believe L was...

If Z was the free wire twisted with the other wire, I suspect it was twisted with the wire going to pin H(24V)? One way they made these units compatible with different vehicles is by how power is applied to the controller Via the harness. There are at least 3 different pins that can accept...