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Yep, clean connections and volt drop test to show you the problems you couldn’t see in the inspection(bad crimps and corroded cables)…

Thats where the voltage drop test comes in handy. Visuals are great, but voltage drop under load will tell you things you cant see about how well the circuit is performing while passing current… https://www.delcoremy.com/support/tech-tip-videos?page=5

I don’t have an intake heater, but that symptom also speaks to a bad connection between alt and batteries. As the inlet heater pulls current, the voltage drops and the battery and the alt should share that load. A high resistance connection back to the batteries would shift more of the inlet...

At those voltages, 50% SOC AGMs should have been gobbling current… your current was fluctuating because the voltage was fluctuating…

I only glanced at this, and mainly read your description and missed the low current. I agree with Lostchain, that this does not make sense. alternators do NOT control current, only voltage.voltage in relation to a batteries state of charge in turn controls current delivered. When an alt...

Well if you have already swapped the reg on it, probably not as it probably has a chassis fault:)

Well looks like a bad alt to me:)

Yep, I remember learning that from you troubleshooting your alt. they switched from low side to high side PWM field control between the 100A and the 260A. They may have done it between the older 100A 1506-1 and the 1509 when they changed the second screw terminal to deliver AC output for the...

I think it is looking for the interactions seen in the series string. IE: if it adjusts the 28V it is expecting a comparable movement in the 14v side and vis-versa. or perhaps for a given amount of 28v field drive to reach 28v, it is expecting a certain amount of 14v SCR drive to reach 14V. Say...

Please tell me more about the 3rd pic, the altered battery box diagram… yours isn’t wired like this is it? What I have observed playing with my 100A Neihoff is that it is configured as a battery balancer. It is looking for a 12v connection INTO THE MIDDLE of a 24v series battery string. When...

If the batteries are charged and in good shape, it shouldn’t matter 2 or 4… Thats the point of the regulator:)

Not the ones I have seen:)

The mil manuals/schematics don’t show the engine side of the ECU wiring on the 3126/c7 trucks…

The tach on the A0 is driven by a magnetic pickoff sampling the 133 ring gear teeth. It is screwed into a port on the bell-housing on the drivers side top just to the rear of the primary fuel filter…

The troubleshooting guide has a flow-chart to work thru to help you determine if it is an alt or a regulator issue. the field should collapse very quickly when exc 24v is removed…

Mine varies about .05V from 28.56 to 28.61 measured with a fluke 87 at the alt this morning. AC showed ~.4V of ripple... That is up from last year, and it has typically been ~28.2V, so i may have something going on there. The 14v is still right around 14.1 on the dash, but didnt put the...

Well I mentioned it earlier, if you set your meter for AC, it will read the ripple as an AC voltage. It is a little easier to quantify it that way, and actually assign a voltage closer to the peak of the excursions that the display cycling, is probably not catching. Thats a decent meter he is...

Those should be way steadier than that. One of 2 things is probably happening. Either the alternator regulator is not able to stabilize the voltage, possibly due to bad connections, or the load itself is unstable, possibly due to bad connections ect. if you disconnect the exc lead from the...

Mine is pretty steady/consistent. Another thing to look for is AC component(ripple) on the DC lines.

I would say fluctuations would be as likely a poor/weak connection as a failing component. As I recall General found a bad connection just inside the front case where the Regulator connection is located…