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And you're giving us a glimpse of "typical mechanic underthinking". The irony is that because you don't want to think about it very hard, you're not even imagining that there is any good reason engineers would make these seal drivers, and you assume it must just be that they were bored and made...

The seal drivers are nice, and help the job go smoother, with less chance of messing up the seals. Most of the strong opinions against things being over-engineered come from not understanding why it was done. The 3D printed drivers work pretty well. They take too long to print to be worth...

For me, I've calculated that 3D prints cost me about $2/hr to make (on hobbyist level 3D printers), including typical filaments, but not including design time, extra hardware (e.g. threaded inserts, fasteners, etc.), or if I have to remove a ton of supports. Making quality designs takes a lot...

Those are pretty simple. Adding the threaded inserts adds some cost (both to buy a quality insert, and installation labor & tools). The only hard part is getting a HMMWV door and a mirror to take accurate measurements from. I'm kind of surprised a plastic part holds up there. If you bump a...

Have a link? I'm not very familiar with much of the HMMWV stuff.

This is a silly argument, because there is no upper limit on how much margin you can add. I could say that your roll cage on your truck isn't good enough, because clearly you don't know what you're doing and didn't add enough margin "like I would have", blah blah blah. Engineering always has...

That will do it. Use a brass brush for cleaning the nozzle. Just put a piece of paper down on the bed to collect debris, and scrub it gently with the brush (while heated to temp). https://smile.amazon.com/Brushes-Scratch-Toothbrush-Cleaning-Welding/dp/B07P6HF4NL/

The other thing to mention with the filled filaments (fillings such as carbon fiber, fiberglass, metal powders, etc.) is that they are extremely abrasive. Make sure you have hardened nozzles, and any other upgrades your printer type may require. This is especially true with the carbon fiber...

Straight nylon, like string trimmer line, is probably too soft for this application. The nylon itself will have much better impact resistance than PETG (or others), but significantly less strength to absorb the abuse in the thin areas. When I was talking about nylon, I meant a nylon filled...

That wasn't my point at all. He was making parts of the seal driver thicker that are already too thick, leaving thin weak parts thin (these probably can't be changed much because of how it has to fit), and then trying to puff up his chest about how he knows what ANSYS is. It's amateur hour...

You didn't really provide much reasoning for your arguments. I explained exactly why I made the decisions I did. You're just trying to turn it into a resume contest, but you shouldn't assume so much. (That's actually a Logical Fallacy called an Appeal to Authority.) It's pretty easy to get...

Have to be careful with that thinking. There is always "better", but the real trick is knowing what is "good enough". The long taper on the flare is mostly for printability, it didn't need it for strength. So the cuts were to remove material that did not need to be there, and were just...

Right, the time goes down, but the resin (especially the highly impact resistant resins) is significantly more expensive. So time lowered, but you're printing at up to $5-10/hr of resin consumption. So the drivers still come out $40-80 (to sell, since the hourly rate includes some handling...

It's not a bad idea, but not really pragmatic either. Each of the seal drivers has different lengths, internal diameters, face recesses, etc. Then you would have to make it so it fit one specific "large military socket", that you hope everyone has (which will end up being a headache). It...

I haven't, no. The PETG does well, so there wasn't much need to look further. PETG has a density that's between HDPE and UHMW. The issues that required adjustment to the design were to minimize thin walls, where the print would separate between layers, and to increase printability so that it...

Already tried it. It doesn't work very well. Even with "ABS-like" resins, they are too hard and brittle. It chipped around the edges.

This is the design right out of the back of the manual (plus some changes to make it printable). While this is partly an experiment, I'd also rather have the tools before I take them apart then get it all disassembled and then find out I can finish the job easily until I do. This was printed...

Thanks. Also, that 17 hour print number is on "draft mode", 0.3mm layer height. At more normal settings (0.15-0.2mm) it would take over 2x that long, maybe 36 hours, but I just wanted to see if it would be feasible.

I figured I'd try 3D printing one of the seal drivers, since I'm about to take the front axle apart. It came out pretty good. It's within 0.005" on dimensions, and seems pretty tough (I printed it 90% infill... basically solid). This took me an hour or two to design up from the prints and tweak...