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Good to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Go back to post #27 & #45. Look to the left, lower part of the screen. Then to the right of LOCATION. You will see the button EDIT. Click there and go into your "document" and make changes. You can and maybe should add at the bottom of the document, that you edited the post. Its not hard.

Its always a pleasure to watch someone who knows what they are doing.

Chris, My mentor told me to ALWAYS unsolder the wire. To NEVER take more then one diode out of the bridge at a time, to preclude screwing it up on reassembly. So thats the way I did it, every time. But it F1 and F2 are open, and T2 and T5 are open, that is where you need to look first. Ray hit...

Roger that!

When you checked the diodes, did you unsolder them? Remove them from the diode bridge? Also, you should be able to test for continuity from F1 and F2, to the input sides of the diodes, I think. I never did it, as it was wasted time for me. I simply put another exciter rotor or stater on. No need...

The cat is good, but still, you need the flamethrower. I once pulled a stator out of a 3 foot in diameter underwater pump, while at a FLYGT underwater pump school. We heated up the housing, and then raised the housing about 3 inches above a pad of cardboard. The dropped it. It slid out like it...

Indeed. This is a no go. The two wires go to a coil inside the Gen head, (in army talk, Main Gen) to light off (excite) the main gen. An open indicates a break someplace in the circuit. Test #5, is a no go. T2 & T5 are a pair. They go to a coil in the main gen. An open indicates a break...

Not your fault. The books are sometimes wrong, or written strange. Unscrew J12. Mesure the restince of the two wires that go into the gen head. You should get continuity. Look at the snip of the wire diagram. The F1 and F2 wires inside the gen head are simply to a coil that lights the gen head...

Having been a part of such meltdowns several times, yes. got a smell you dont forget.

This is supposed to be the reading on the winding

OK, lets agree that 13-15 test are good to go. Then test 10-12 should be good. Test 1-3. You should get no continuity, between T1 and T2, or T2 and T3, or T1 and T3. They are not a pair. So they should be open. Those tests should be GOOD. That leaves test 4-9. Here I see a problem, These...

I assume your using the 002A -34 TM?

Ray, J10-A is a ground wire. You should get continuity. Or not? Am I mixing this up?

I have been looking at the diagrams, till my eyes run. Both you and the OP are saying P10-A. I see a J10-A. Do we agree thats the same thing? P is the plug side. J is the jack side?

OK, let me try and get this right. I am old. Slow. Tests 13,14, and 15. These are all good readings to me. Anyone else see this different?

The small connector going to the main gen should be J12? Pins A&B are the F1 and F2 wires, that provide the initial excitation. Pin A is P67B and Pin B is P60G. Take the plug off, and Test at the two pins while someone else tries to start the gen set. Even after it starts, hold up the S1. you...

And LOOK in the second AC output box, to make sure there is not rats nest in it!

Checking the A.C. output switch is a good idea, but can not be the problem, if you do not have 120 volts at the 120 volt outlet. Well, as long as the Circuit breaker for the 120 volt outlet is pushed in, and working. Looking into the AC output box should be the next step.