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Most of the studs I've encountered so far on my truck's rims have a thick layer of CARC on them, with the coating thinner on some studs than others, allowing rust to form. I learned the hard way that it's best to chase these threads with a die first so that the clamp ring nuts back off easier...

I ended up doing this with my first wheel and torquing it to spec (between 425 and 475 ft-lbs for the M35A3 rims). The wheel is holding air fine. Hopefully I won't have to pull these rims apart for awhile! But when I have to, it won't be as terrible as this time. Another thing I realized is...

I'm ready to screw on my new rim nuts. What I'm about to ask is probably as bad as religion or politics: Is never seize recommended for the rim nut installation? TM doesn't mention otherwise. I'd think it wouldn't be as big an issue with these distorted thread nuts, but I'm an amateur when it...

Erik doesn't have the nuts in right now. Oshkosh and Big Mike's has them, though shipping is expensive - maybe I can ask them to use a USPS flat rate box instead. Memphis Equipment has rim nuts that will fit 5/8" studs for the M939A2, which confuses me because I thought that was exclusively an...

I wrecked the original two-piece rim lock nuts off my M35A3 rim (tip - don't run a tap all the way through the lock nuts :mad: Yeah not happy with myself!). I know they're the same lock nuts that came on the M939A2 rims, so I was wondering where the 5-ton folks are getting their replacements...