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I'd guess that fuel hose is thicker, but if it fits, it should work.

If you find out, let me know.. they are pretty much NLA ( No Longer Available ) from any source I, and others, have tried. You really don't need it anyway, just connect directly, remembering Top for Transmission.

No, it is not threaded in there, just a tapered shaft. I had to heat mine to get it loose. You could try hitting the socket it is stuck in on either side at the same time with two ball pean hammers, like they do to remove tie-rod ends.

Thanks for the info on this! It wasn't all that hard, really, well, except for recovering the bolts that fell down into the stake pockets!

Got it a playmate! No, not that kind... Picked up the M101A3 from Camp Pendleton this morning. It seems to be in pretty good shape overall, and the hubs were nice and cool after about 200 miles. The tires are not new, but look good, and should last a little while. The tarp looks to be in...

Please don't use starting fluid! See this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?67012-Click-click-BOOM! I would suggest that you follow the glow plug system testing procedure in the TM's, as that is probably why it is hard to start. There are also wiring diagrams in the TM's to...

I know this is a basic suggestion, but some don't know about it... have you adjusted the brightness of the dash lights via the headlight switch?

Yes, all CUCVs originally used the same key. Check the CUCV FAQ for more info.

Maybe see if a local alternator rebuilding shop can chase the threads for you?

CJ - These are the terminals I used when I had new battery cables made up: http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/OffRoad-Electrical-Accessories--Components/Battery-Terminals--Accessories/p/Military-Battery-Terminal-and-Boot-Sets-sku-MilTermKit001.htm

CJ - That bracket if for a chemical agent alarm. See this thread here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?12148-Anyone-know-what-this-mount-is-for One thing to keep in mind is that not every CUCV had every piece of equipment issued to it. If it was assigned to a unit that didn't need...

From this week's auctions? If so, I couldn't find any. Where? How much?

I presume this also means you have to be certain that whatever you are powering off this "second leg" is completely isolated from the chassis?

nopics Please? :-)

Don't know about the whole housing, but what about this: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/87539-installation-cucv-led-taillights.html

Installed the headlight relay kit from LMC. Its an ok set given the price. Way cheaper than the ones Summit sells. I'm sure the more expensive one is much better quality, but the budget doesn't stretch that far! I figure I can upgrade to Bosch relays in the future if need be. One thing I don't...

Umm, silly question... why do you want a shift indicator with a broken needle? And if it is really that important, why not just break the one you have and save the trip to the bone yard? :grin:

Should be... like anything else on these trucks, soak the bolts in penetrating oil for a few days. The only problem I had was with the tapered bolt on one end required heat to get it out. I put in one from the Rancho 5000 line, but many here seem to prefer the Monroe stabilizer.

Pmramsey - do those seats tilt at all? I'm wondering how they would work in an M1009, allowing access to the back seat. What are those seats from? Did they use the stock mounting locations in the floor pan? I really like that M101A3 bed on there! I just might have to look for a project truck...

Can you post some daytime pics? I looked at some of those LED bolts, and they all stuck out too far in the back for my use. Which ones did you use?