002A IP problem?

[Light in the Dark]

Testing one of my new arrivals... fluids done, batteries installed... figure out which fuel pumps work and which dont.

So I can get fuel all the way up to the last fitting I can reach on the fuel line, just outside of the IP. Fuel is being returned to the tank... but I'm not getting any in the actual IP. I cracked one of the lines that goes up to the cylinders, and primed the system, and no fuel came out (I am sure there might be a proper bleed valve, but this fitting was much easier to reach). The linkage to the right of this that moves up and down is very sticky (in motion). This a pretty classic IP issue? Is there something between that last fitting and the actual IP which could be causing this (a blockage)?

Thanks in advance.

 

[redlight]

Greetings,
The thing to the right of the pump is a shut off solenoid. It needs to be raised in order for fuel to flow to the pump and then to the injectors. You can manually hold the valve up/open and then crank engine. It will take some time 10-30 seconds for fuel to get to the injectors. I have a used 002 here in Reading Mass, and we can work together if you are close to Boston.
Good luck
Redlight

 

[Guyfang]

LITD,

The linkage should not be sticky. Take it apart and oil the ball joints.

Take me out the check valve. Look it over, see if something is blocking it.

If if you don't get fuel to the injector lines then, you may not have a button in the IP, or the IP may be gummed up.

 

[jamawieb]

IP gummed up and the plunger is not moving. Several post about this problem and solutions to fix it.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have some parts IPs if you get it open and find broken parts.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I was hoping to not pull the pump, but I do think I am going to find it all gummed up. Time to go read about that pandora's box...

 

[Guyfang]

LITD,

It's easy. Just read the TM. I promise. If I can do it, so can you. Time the engine, pull the pump, and soak it in carb cleaner. Take a look see, inside. Clean some more. If everything is good, put it back together and install into the engine. Don't loose the button. If you keep the wire in the IP, to keep it in time, you cant get it wrong. The first time I did it, I thought I could fix the problem without fooling with the wire in the IP. Well, I was wrong! But it still didnt take too long before I was done. Just read the book and follow the instructions. When you are done, you will be saying, "Heck, that wasn't sooooooooooooo bad!"

 

[Ray70]

Hello LITD, if you need any info I have a bunch of the AMBAC files in pdf format, parts schematics, instructions and such for that model 50 pump. Like Guyfang said, its really not hard to remove and rebuild them. If your not pumping any fuel out of the IP and its gummed up, there's a good chance you have a broken "dogbone" drive link in the pump. Or plunger guide as AMBAC calls it.
I've fixed a couple with split dogbones, its really not hard at all, just follow the instructions and put the engine at TDC and stick a wire or drill bit into the alignment hole in the side of the pump before you remove / install it.

 

[Guyfang]

Ray,

If you have some extra info, post it. We can never have enough.

 

[Ray70]

Lets see if I can attach the AMBAC files here...
View attachment diagram model 50.pdfView attachment Model 50 service.pdfView attachment AMBAC technical info on IP button.pdfView attachment Shims needed to mount M50 pump.pdf

 

[jamawieb]

This is in several other threads but I've bought and sold over 200 002as and 003as. What I always did, is to take the fuel filter canisters off and fill them with lacquer thinner and carburetor cleaner, then make sure everything is clean and have fresh diesel in the tank. Start the pumps and then quickly move the throttle linkage up and down while rotating the motor over by hand. Keep rotating the motor as you move the linkage up and down. This helps break down the varnish on the plunger and inside the pump.
Just be careful because lacquer thinner will swell the orings inside. If you have to take it apart after that, then you will need to replace those orings more than likely. There is a plunger guide inside that is made of very thin material and varnish will build up on the plunger, not allowing it to move thorough the plunger guide; in turn is what breaks the plunger guide. Very simple to work on and replace if you are required to do so. More than likely since the linkage is rough and you've tried to start it without success, the plunger guide is more than likely broken.

 

[jamawieb]

Thanks Ray70, these are very helpful.

 

[Guyfang]

Thanks RAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Ray70]

You're totally welcome... As for parts, my experience is that going direct to AMBAC is the best way. There is a woman in the parts dept. who is very helpful.
Rather than buying each individual part you need, they have some "kits" that include several parts ( such as the delivery valve spacer and o-rings ) and the price is way less than buying each piece separate.