1009 front receiver hitch and winch install

[richingalveston]

I got the receiver parts back from the powder coater today and installed everything. I still need to get some power quick disconnects for the winch. I currently have cables long enough to reach the front battery so it is connected and working but I want to get the quick disconnects so I can install one in the front and one in the back when I get the 2 inch receiver for the back.

Here are the pics, I had posted some previously in another thread so I thought I would post them again with the finished product pics also.

 

[bp m1009]

did you fab up all the brackets yourself, where do you get that winch from? and what is the lift setup on your truck? i like the height are those 37's?

 

[richingalveston]

I built the brackets myself and had them powder coated to match the truck, The winch is a 12K mile marker that I bought used from another member on SS. Yes they are 37 inch recentered hummers with rock rings that I bought from trail worthy fab. The truck has 5 inch Ord lift (4 inch shackle flip rear, 4 inch tough country HD springs in front with 1 inch zero rates front and back). It has cross over high steer and a Dana 60 in front and a 14 bolt ff in rear with 4:56 gears (axles are from a 100. Truck is still being built so it has not been driven except for some short test runs. I am waiting on transfer case parts. I have installed a 4l80e trans and will be installing a doubler transfer case. The 208 with slip yoke and standard U joints does not work with this much lift. when new transfer case is installed it will have CV style driveshafts front and rear.

 

[bp m1009]

i read your build thread after i asked you those questions. Pretty **** sweet. way more involved then ill probly ever get. Im looking at going with a 4" lift, do you think ill have any driveline binding/angle problems with that small of a lift? i was thinking ORD shackle flip and tuff country springs up front.

 

[richingalveston]

you might be ok with that, it is hard to tell for sure. With the 4l80e installed, the transfer case is moved back 2 inches and this makes the 5 inch lift not work with the slip yoke tcase. I did move the rear axle back an inch with the zero rates so really I only lost one inch. The shackle flip rotates your pinion angle up and also moves your axle forward just a little.
You can do several other mods to make things work. If you have the room in the driveshaft angle at the t-case, you may be able to shim your pinion angle back down. My biggest problem is angles. they are not the same at each end of the driveshaft so I have bad vibrations from the drive shaft. If you shim your angle back down after the shackle flip and still have room on the upper joint, it may correct the problem.
Second and probably the best fix is to change to a cv style joint on the rear drive shaft at the transfer case. some people do this while keeping the slip yoke I would probably change the tcase to a fixed yoke and put the slip in the driveshaft. The CV style is what is currently on the front driveshaft.
The third fix is to drop your tcase a few inches but you will probably still have to shim the rear axle to rotate the pinion angle down if the shackle flip is used.
when you drop the tcase, you change the angle of how the engine and transmission set in the frame thus you only want to do this a small amount. you can drop the tcase with a clocking ring to get more drop but then you somewhat defeat the purpose of the lift because you loose ground clearance and you have to rework the cross member.
The biggest issue with lifting a 1009 with the short drive line is getting the driveshaft angles on both ends similar. they do not have to be exact but need to be close to avoid bad vibration problems. CV style driveshaft do not have to have the same angles.

Lifting the 1009 is not the easiest to lift when you go more than a few inches. I am not sure if there is a big difference between 4 and 5 inches. I went with 4 in order to do the cross over steer and ended up with 5 to use the zero rates. I had planned on changing the tcase and using cv joints in both axles anyway so in the end my lift and mods will work. Not sure how far you want to go with your truck but changing one item usually results in other needed mods.

 

[ThunderCracker]

Looks good Rich. Did your M1009 come with two front blackout lights or did you mod it? Missing the front receptacle.

 

[richingalveston]

I installed the second black out light and got rid of the slave receptacle. I don't plan on a need for it. I also like things to look even. With the winch hanging out there and the 4 other lights I am going to install, (two IR lights and two 7 inch 24V spotlights) the blackout light on only one side would be blocked by all of the other stuff so I thought it would be better to have two on the front so they would be usable and I would be able to see the other side of the road when the blackout lights were in use.

 

[ThunderCracker]

I like the uniform look.

 

[bp m1009]

Thanks for all the info Rich, im hoping with a 4" ill be able to get away with having to do less. but we'll see i guess. how difficult/expensive is it to switch to a CV style rear joint?

 

[richingalveston]

cost is about the same depending on which way you go, If you keep the slip yoke, I think you can get a cv style high angle drive shaft between $400 and $600. If you decide to mod your tcase and can do the work yourself, it is pretty cheep but you still have to get the drive shaft which still may cost around $400 or more. To change the tcase, you basicly have to get a rebuild kit and change the rear slip yoke housing with I believe it is a ford 208 tail piece. It is not a direct swap the tcase housing takes a little modification, there are videos and other documentaries on how to do it if you look for them. There may be some on this site but there is definately some on the other 4x4 sites.

keeping the slip yoke is less work but changing it makes for a better drive train. IF you do it right with shafts that have a lot of slip, you can make the front and back shaft interchangable and thus have the option of getting a third to carry as a spare.

 

[bjsmith]

With 4" lift you should be able to keep all stock sriveshaft. Mine had 4" blocks in back and 6" springs in front when I got it and had stock driveshafts. Now it has 2" longer shackles in front for extra inch of lift still with stock shaft and 7" of lift. Rear has shackle flip and 2.5" block that moves axle back 1.5" to recenter it in wheel well with 2" longer driveshaft but it is still regular u joints with no problems