1009 Rear Main Seal

[DXTAC]

Good morning SS!!!!

I have determined that the rear main is leaking on my 1009 and needs to be replaced (it is not the breather or leaking from the top end and and leaking down nor trans fluid). I tried calling several shops and they all had to "get back to me" because the vehicle is so old and "off the books". Those that did get back gave me prices anywhere from $815 to get this, $3500 from a local Chevy STEALERship (Bill Jacobs Chevrolet in Plainfield - don't wanna get started again on that one)!!!

I've done research here on SS and I have read the TM and FAQ article and it seems that everyone has input but has anyone done this job before? I am a "Shade Tree" mechanic with average skills and all the necessary tools and would be attempting this on my back on a creeper and will NOT have the luxury of a lift.

I have done seals/bearings on older small blocks in the past and it always seems like when you touch one thing on the low end things seem to have a domino effect like if you loosen one cap a rattle starts, if you loosen all the caps to make the job easier further leaks and rattles develop.

Can anyone that has done this job give me some insight as to what I may be getting into? This is not my daily driver and have no problem doing this over the course of several days. Funny how such a cheap part can be such an expensive labor intense PITA!!!

Thanks in advance,

 

[rnd-motorsports]

The chevy or at least older one like these are rather easy to change rear main you can get the pan off without pulling the motor. I like to let them set for for a couple hours after I drain the oil to drip off , pull the pan,remove the oil pump and the rear main be careful of the bearing may stay on the crank, the hard part is getting the top half of the seal out then back in I have a small plastic punch. Push the seal up so you can grab the other side with a good pair of needle nose plyers and pull out the seal. be carefull not to scratch the crank, Soak the new one in oil and carefully start to push it back in do not force it I use a tac hammer and my plastic punch must be careful not to crush the end you may see a small shave of seal from the block side never have done without getting some ! tap seal in till its just I like about 1/8 from being flush. leave it stick out on one sid and just inside on the other ,just so seem is not at seem of main cap put seal in main cap. If you removed or it came out replace bearing do not put any oil on the main cap or back of bearing leave dry. put oil on bearing surface and small dab of good sealer on one half of rear main seal ends just very small film and reinstall. Take your time and not that bad. the torque for the main caps if you cant find it are inner bolt are 110 ft lbs and outer bolts are 100 ft lbs the oil pump bolt are 65 ft lbs I like to swap the oil pump with a high vol melling unit when I do one just me. Also I will only use fel-pro gaskets again just me and doing things over is not my cup of tea. the fel-pro number for the seal is BS40529 just in case you are interested. not that bad of a job.

 

[TulsaME]

From the CUCV FAQ Article...

Rear main seal replacement without removing engine
Autozone rear main ~ $22
Autozone oil pan seals ~ $12

Here are the steps I took:

1. Jack up front end frame, to raise frame slightly off axle. Even an inch will help.
2. Drain oil, remove filter.
3. Unplug batteries
4. Remove starter
5. Remove bottom access for bell housing, tricky since tranny cooling lines have to be pushed over a bit, no need to remove the lines though
6. Pull oil pan, may need to loosen a line for the front axle breather from frame rail, tends to block access to front bolts on oil pan. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the pan loose from the engine block if it sticks; which it should if RTV was used.
7. Remove oil pump/pickup
8. Remove rear main bearing cap
9. Remove old seal
10. Install new seal, carefully. I had a helper and with 4 hands we were able to hold it in place while applying pressure to push it in the grove. Take note of placement, mine was labeled which side points out. TM shows a shim which can be made to assist in seal install. I'd be wary though as you don't want to damage the seal.
11. Following the TM, use anaerobic sealing compound on the rear main cap as specified, install rear main cap and torque to spec.
12. Reinstall oil pump/pickup
13. Clean old gasket from oil pan and engine block. RTV oil pan gasket to oil pan, let sit for 10 minutes, RTV top of gasket, let sit a few minutes; then reinstall oil pan while trying not to get RTV places it should not be.
14. Reinstall bell housing access cover and air breather line for front axle if removed.
15. Reinstall starter
16. Install oil filter
17. Fill oil, check level, etc.
18. Reconnect batteries
19. Start it up, recheck oil level after idling for a few minutes and verifying no leaks.

That is about it! If anyone sees a step I missed, please edit this. As long as you have another vehicle to drive in case the job takes longer than you hoped; you'll be fine to try it yourself. It took me two days, maybe 7hrs total. First day, I setup doing steps 1-5. Once you pull the oil pan, you will want to finish through step 13

 

[DXTAC]

I read this FAQ entry but I am searching for real world intel. Like I was told by two places the engine had to be raised but as stated above by rnd-motorsports it doesn't. I was also told that all the caps had to be loosened to remove the rear seal when apparently it doesn't.

Thank you rnd-motorsports! Any further words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Ken_86gt]

I didn't raise the engine- just lift the front of the vehicle a few inches to make it easier to clear the front axle when removing the oil pan on and off. The only cap that needs to be removed is the rear main- that is where the seal is. I would recommend replacing the oil pump while you have it all apart. I got one at AZ for $33. If you do the oil pump I would prime it first.

 

[rnd-motorsports]

correct on both replys sometimes it is helps a great deal to lift the front of the truck on non lifted trucks helps with removing oil pan raise and place on jack stands under the frame let front axle drop down to gain the room! And you only need to remove the rear main cap