101A2 electric brakes - problem

[Buffalobwana]

Since my surge brake system was shot, I bought $250 set of electric Dexter brakes, with parking brake lever. I went on info given to me by ... I forget. Maybe eTrailer? Anyway ... bad info.

They fit, but wouldn’t work. Probably because I didn’t understand how they worked. The original drums are made for hydraulic brakes, and they don’t have the smooth outer face needed for electric brakes.

So, now I’m $250 into a job that looks like an empty money pit. Can’t send brakes back because they are pretty “used”. Still want brakes, so I need new drums.

In researching the drums, I see that the only drum/hubs I can find, that will fit the 1.312” outer spindle OD, is a Dexter 9k axle. They run over $1k a pair. Nope.

Every other 8x6.5 drum I find has a 1.25” outer bearing ID. (All the inner bearings are 1.75 on every drum I saw, the 101A2 is as well)

What now ...

1. They sell complete axle kits, w/brakes. $400 or so. Maybe I could get them to subtract the brakes. Still, more $ than I wanted to spend.

2. I can get 2 drums for $200, but the outer race pocket only accepts the smaller 1.25” bearing size.

So, could I get a drum milled out to accept the proper race so I can use the outer bearing that fits the 101A2 spindle?

 

[Coug]

err, what was wrong and what did you figure out? Someone else might run across a similar issue and need help.

 

[Buffalobwana]

The 101A2 has drums for a hydraulic brakes. Drums for electric brakes are smooth on the side so the magnet can grab. The hydraulic drums are not smooth and will do a number on your magnets, and not do anything to stop your trailer.

Finally I googled “how do electric trailer brakes work”. Pretty much got my answer immediately. Probably should have started there.

 

[Buffalobwana]

err, what was wrong and what did you figure out? Someone else might run across a similar issue and need help.

Coug isn’t loosing his marbles. I deleted the post, and he replied to it. I went ahead and reposted the question.

 

[glcaines]

Why didn't you just repair the surge brakes? They are very simple and replacement parts are easy to find. When I got my M116A2 trailer, the surge brakes didn't work. I replaced the shock absorber and one broken hydraulic line. I think the total was about $35.00 for parts. I flushed out the system and it has been working great now for quite a few years.

 

[Buffalobwana]

In hindsight, might have been best. At the time, I wanted to level the tongue and remove the excess weight, so I built a light weight lunette and sold the nose gear to gimpy.

 

[Buffalobwana]

The entire system was jacked. Lines cut, master cylinder shot and I didn’t know what lay beyond just those problems. Before and after shots.

 

[Coug]

Lines can be bought from NAPA, master cylinder easily available online (same design used in forklifts still), slave cylinders also available online.

But that's mostly relevant if you plan to tow it with a HMMWV and don't have a trailer brake controller. If it's for behind a civilian truck then electrical should work just as well, and makes for a little less tongue weight.

 

[Buffalobwana]

That was the plan. At first, I was going to buy the $120 brakes. I sold the nose gear for $100, so I’m close enough to even and took 50 lbs off the tongue. My back is already happy.

Then someone talked me into the ones with parking brakes. Ok, I can do that. They are handy.

I saw a post where someone else did it. If they mentioned changing out the axel, I missed that part!

 

[Buffalobwana]

I had Southwest Tire and Wheel order a 5200 lb axle for me with 12” drums and 8x6.5 hubs. I’ll weld the perches and shock mounts on and try not to think about how much my mistake cost me.