1045 A2 with Hydraulic Line's Leaky Quick Connect Fitting

[G3isMe]

I have a 2003 1045A2 with a leaky quick connect fitting on the line behind the radiator. It started as slow drip and is getting worse. I assume the fan and shroud have to come off? I have gone through the tech memos but I haven't found anything concerning the fan and shroud removal; which is not to say I didn't overlook something. If anyone has any tips, techniques, or advice concerning accessing and repairing the quick connect line they are willing to share I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,

 

[springer1981]

I know on mine it would be very difficult to replace that fitting without removing the radiator. I think you will need to remove the radiator stack and the shroud will come with it. The fan doesn't need to be removed and you will be able to change the connectors and reassemble. I happen to have a new set of those connectors if you need them. I had to buy 2 of each when I did mine.

 

[G3isMe]

Thanks springer, I may take you up on the offer .

 

[NDT]

Can’t you reach through the blades and uncouple it, then fish it out where you can replace it? I kinda forgot.

 

[springer1981]

Can’t you reach through the blades and uncouple it, then fish it out where you can replace it? I kinda forgot.

Yes you can. If you want to replace both side of the connection then it would be very difficult to get to the part on the clutch. I prefer to replace both sides when dealing with any leaking connections. However it could very well just be the one side. ...I assumed he meant replacing both sides.

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

You can replace the female QD connector on the hose by reaching up from the bottom through the fan. no need to remove shroud or radiator. It's a PIA but it can be done.

 

[Coug]

I'll second this, it CAN be done in place.

Disconnect the line where it goes through the shroud on the driver's side, and the larger nut/washer holding it against the shroud. Then you can reach in and disconnect, and pull it all out.
The fitting in the fan hub is harder and will take quite a while, working with your hands at funny angles and putting a lot of pressure on your arms with the fan blades. It takes a while to remove the old one and install the new one.

If you don't care about it being OEM, you can take the fittings to any local hydraulics shop and get standard fittings to replace it, as they will have standard ones on hand. I believe it's just 1/4" pipe threads (I could be off on the size)

Much less hassle than removing the cooling stack, but a bit more difficult.

 

[G3isMe]

Yes you can. If you want to replace both side of the connection then it would be very difficult to get to the part on the clutch. I prefer to replace both sides when dealing with any leaking connections. However it could very well just be the one side. ...I assumed he meant replacing both sides.

Correct, my original intent was to replace both sides; hoses and couplers. I am not sure where it is leaking or even which side is leaking. I tried reaching up there but my monkey arms were not quite long enough to remove or replace the coupler. In the long run i think it will be easier to work on without the radiator in my way. So it looks like I will be pulling the radiator, ughhh.........

 

[Mogman]

Allot of us have to reach trough the blades and undo the hose because we don't have the fancy coupling, definitely can be done without removing anything.

 

[TOBASH]

Pulling your radiator is always a great thing. It allows you to wash out all the dirt and grime and crap that collected in there.

When I did this with my mechanic buddy, I found I had three small punctures in my radiator underside that would have led to failure, so I was able to replace my radiator rather expediently. I also found so much dirt in there that I can’t believe that my cooling stack was very effective at all.

Just an FYI

Best,

T

 

[Mogman]

Definitely get some help, it ridiculous to remove the radiator to do that job, unless it needs to be hot vatted

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

Correct, my original intent was to replace both sides; hoses and couplers. I am not sure where it is leaking or even which side is leaking. I tried reaching up there but my monkey arms were not quite long enough to remove or replace the coupler. In the long run i think it will be easier to work on without the radiator in my way. So it looks like I will be pulling the radiator, ughhh.........

I replaced the hose side only on my 1045a2 and it fixed my leak. Took all of 30 minutes. Just saying…..

 

[Coug]

usually it's just the fitting on the hose size; one color of fitting is notorious for leaking, the other color seems good. I can't tell you what the colors are or which is the better one.
It's unlikely to be the fitting on the fan hub; it's a single piece with zero moving parts. The only reason I replaced mine was using a different type of fitting. If you are replacing with the HMMWV fitting, then there should be no need to replace the other piece unless you can find physical damage to it (unlikely)

 

[G3isMe]

Thanks guys. I greatly appreciate the feedback and advice.

 

[Mogman]

Actually I am glad this came up.
I am going to be doing a GEP turbo re-fit to one of my M998s soon, I have and WAS going to use the later quick style coupler.
But since I can change the serpentine belt without disconnecting the fan hub I the chances that I will be replacing a leaking quick connect is as high or higher than I would need to disconnect the hose for any other reason.
Would be a good re-fit for anyone with V belts but even then it is not that difficult to disconnect the old style hose...

 

[G3isMe]

I replaced the female end of the quick connect fitting and I had a new hydraulic hose made by a local shop. That stopped the leak. I would have liked to have had an Inspector Gadget arm to reach the hose but I persevered. I have read conflicting opinions on the need to bleed the the system, is it necessary to bleed?

Thanks to all who replied to this thread. And a big thank you to springer1981 for selling me a fitting, and Coug and Andyrv6av8r for their pm's with invaluable advice.

 

[Coug]

I replaced the female end of the quick connect fitting and I had a new hydraulic hose made by a local shop. That stopped the leak. I would have liked to have had an Inspector Gadget arm to reach the hose but I persevered. I have read conflicting opinions on the need to bleed the the system, is it necessary to bleed?

Thanks to all who replied to this thread. And a big thank you to springer1981 for selling me a fitting, and Coug and Andyrv6av8r for their pm's with invaluable advice.

I didn't worry about bleeding mine.
The hydraulic clutch is a dead end system. It doesn't matter if it has any air in it.Eventually the air will bleed out on it's own, and when it does the next component in the system is the reservoir, where the fluid will have a chance to get the air out before going back through the system.
If you really want to though, there is likely a bleed valve next to the cadillac valve, but it will take a while to actually bleed as you need to cycle the fan clutch repeatedly to move the fluid into the line to replace the air.