1078 A0 engine starts, runs for anywhere between 8-30 seconds... [newbie ? buried in a long post]

[GeneralDisorder]

Build new hoses all the way to the tank. At least in the case of my A1R you have to pull the tool box to get at them and that means lowering the spare, etc. It's not as difficult as it looks though. On my C7 the short hose from the filters to the engine was wet right after I got the truck so I replaced that one and then not longer after I replaced the rest and found what you see above. They just rot and fall apart and my truck is only 15 years old.

 

[Ronmar]

The seal between the primary filter and the water separator bowl is also a common place for leaks, that and cracks in the old bowls. You need to be able to pull a Vacume from tank all the way to the lift pump on the governor…

 

[thomaspc]

Build new hoses all the way to the tank. At least in the case of my A1R you have to pull the tool box to get at them and that means lowering the spare, etc. It's not as difficult as it looks though. On my C7 the short hose from the filters to the engine was wet right after I got the truck so I replaced that one and then not longer after I replaced the rest and found what you see above. They just rot and fall apart and my truck is only 15 years old.

Did you use all 8AN ?

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Did you use all 8AN ?

I would be guessing if I said yes but it looks like that's probably correct - easy enough to disconnect one from the tank to measure..... I pulled them and took them to a local supplier and had them build the hoses with crimp couplers like the originals. I had them add about 4" for shrinkage on the old hoses. Worked out just right.

 

[Ronmar]

The fuel lines are -6 JIC…

 

[thomaspc]

The fuel lines are -6 JIC…

If you only need to drive it less than a mile, could you gravity feed it with a fuel can and a short hose. Eliminate any leaks or pump issues?

Get it to the barn at least.

Bought some fuel line, fittings, and cobbled something together. The fuel line magically fit pretty snug inside the line on a jaz can. Problem with using a jaz can was it has a air cap, and I had to lay it on it's side with only a gallon or so in it. I'll get a picture tomorrow. Ran it out of fuel getting it here so it took a few tries. Good news, it fully aired up, [still has a small leak at the manifold] and other gauges look good.

 

[Ronmar]

Did you put the return into your can? These things circulate a ton more fuel than they actually burn

 

[thomaspc]

The fuel lines are -6 JIC…

So you can buy fittings, but not build lines. That's probably better, as @GeneralDisorder said, just take existing lines, add a couple inches, and have them made. I've been told that's what people do for hydraulic lines, just take it to a tractor place and they make one for you.

 

[thomaspc]

Did you put the return into your can? These things circulate a ton more fuel than they actually burn

Nope. got about a 1/2 mile per gallon. I considered one of those cans they use for outboards, with the little primer, I think they have a return. But I had to stop thinking and start doing. Now I can start on the actual fix (es) At least I got to drive it, with no door latches, a mirror flopping around, and dust flying.

 

[Ronmar]

So you can buy fittings, but not build lines. That's probably better, as @GeneralDisorder said, just take existing lines, add a couple inches, and have them made. I've been told that's what people do for hydraulic lines, just take it to a tractor place and they make one for you.

Pre-made -6 jic lines in various lengths are common stocked items in a lot of places. I bought a set at surplus center…

 

[Ronmar]

Nope. got about a 1/2 mile per gallon. I considered one of those cans they use for outboards, with the little primer, I think they have a return.

you probably couldnt use it with the inline primer though, as it would not allow enough flow. That is why our primer setups have that flapper bypass valve, the lift pump moves a lot of fuel.

I ran my return into a bucket once while testing, i didnt time it, but it put fuel in the bucket pretty quickly...

 

[olly hondro]

I will be the 3rd vote for replacing the rubber fuel lines. I had new ones made up at a Parker hose place locally. Not alot of money, solved this problem.

 

[thomaspc]

Replaced the line from tank to first filter, [had one made at a local tractor place] didn't fix it, then replaced fuel filter [same separator bowl but new o-rings],
and it seemed better, but still didn't hold a prime, so used a kit and replaced the 2-foot line from primer to lift pump. Now it starts and runs. Not super confident in those compression fittings, so I'll have that hose made too. Appreciate all the help and input, moving on to all the "routine" maintenance.

 

[Ronmar]

Mine had a crack in the filter bowl. Didn’t find it until I filled the system with fuel, capped the return line at the tank and applied 10PSI from a regulator at the fuel feed line at the tank. Let it set for a while and then found fuel weeping from the bowl below the seal.

I replaced the filter/bowl assembly with a one piece metal unit made by Baldwin, #1222(BF1222). Still has the sediment bowl and drain port, just not the acrylic bowl or O-ring seal. I used these for years on generators I serviced, they worked fine. It doesn’t have the heating element in it, but unless you are operating in pretty extreme environments, you probably wouldn’t need it. How many trucks have you seen with heated filter sep units installed? Its a metal can, you could always apply heat to it to melt any ice and then pump out the water if you had to…