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1078A1 Drivetrain

abfisher1798

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Blythe, California
2003 1078A1

I bought a lemon from GP. I filed my dispute and am going back and forth with them.

If I keep it as is, I’m looking at a possible complete drivetrain replacement; engine, trans and t-case. Other than that, it’s in excellent condition.

I’m on the fence about how to proceed. I’d like to hear from others who have been in a similar predicament and what the outcome was.

I’d also need to source the engine/trans.

Thanks.
 

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NDT

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Wow never seen a LMTV with the block cracked back there. Does it run? Very definitely a lemon. More like humpty dumpty.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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Wow never seen a LMTV with the block cracked back there. Does it run? Very definitely a lemon. More like humpty dumpty.
They said it ran in the listing and it drove around. With the rear driveline removed and a snapped off rear yoke and a cracked transmission bellhousing and cracked block. But apparently it ran and drove around according to the inspection.

But I found that sign in it that wasn't in the listing pictures.

The cab writing on the front of does not run was under the G sticker.
 

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Keith Knight

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Looks like you have a strong case. Maybe get a crashed one from them that the drive train is all good. Do a swap and have lots of spare parts. But that’s a ton of work.
 

tennmogger

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That crack in the engine block is at the same pan bolt as the crack on an engine I have. You will probably find the pan bolts loose. I pulled the pan and magnafluxed the inside block wall and no crack. Oil may not leak through the crack but through the pan seal. You can take out the bolt, clean well, insert a threaded rod (metric) with plenty of sealer, to seal the crack. I found that Permatex Right Stuff, and no gasket, will hold the pan on. Gaskets always failed.
 

abfisher1798

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Well cracks do not necessarily mean it won’t run. And driving without a rear driveshaft is as simple as pushing the mode button… But covering up “doesn’t run“ markings with cardboard is definitely failure to disclose…
Can you explain what you mean regarding the Mode? I figured since this is an AWD, it would go at all unless all the driveshafts are connected.
 

abfisher1798

Active member
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Blythe, California
That crack in the engine block is at the same pan bolt as the crack on an engine I have. You will probably find the pan bolts loose. I pulled the pan and magnafluxed the inside block wall and no crack. Oil may not leak through the crack but through the pan seal. You can take out the bolt, clean well, insert a threaded rod (metric) with plenty of sealer, to seal the crack. I found that Permatex Right Stuff, and no gasket, will hold the pan on. Gaskets always failed.
On your engine, how long was the fracture? I can follow mine until it disappears behind the starter, can't find the end of it.
 

TacMac2012

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I have a complete 330hp 3126/Allison out of an a1 for sale. Runs excellent. Good luck on your case, I am guessing you re going to need luck on your side.
 

coachgeo

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you likely have other problems too. I suspect something with rear axle as well..... hence no rear driveshaft..... some have found this to occur from bad driveshaft.. while others found it to occur by bad rear yoke lube ... both can cause rear on 4x4 or middle axle on 6x6 to have pumpkin inner issues.

that being said... loose driveshaft issues were more in the 3116 variant...
 

Ronmar

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Can you explain what you mean regarding the Mode? I figured since this is an AWD, it would go at all unless all the driveshafts are connected.
The center AWD torque converter is a 70/30 torque split favoring the rear, and you are correct, if torque can escape thru any one wheel, it will and the truck will just set. But when you select mode, this locks that center diff turning it from AWD to 4WD And the torque splits equally between the front and rear and the driveshafts turn at the same rate Regardless of load…
 

abfisher1798

Active member
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Blythe, California
The center AWD torque converter is a 70/30 torque split favoring the rear, and you are correct, if torque can escape thru any one wheel, it will and the truck will just set. But when you select mode, this locks that center diff turning it from AWD to 4WD And the torque splits equally between the front and rear and the driveshafts turn at the same rate Regardless of load…
I didn’t know that. Thanks.
 

Green Mountain Boys

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Vermont
The 1998 M1078 LMTV I bought from GP was listed as everything works, nothing wrong. The pictures showed no issues, not even any wear or scuff marks. It was one on the 5 or so cleanest looking trucks I had ever seen listed. It had only 2500 miles and all indications were that was accurate. The plan was to pick up the truck and drive it home after doing a thorough check of the truck.

At pickup day I found all was as described except the radiator fan and clutch were completely shot. The fan wobbled so bad it nearly hit the radiator. This was not something that could be easily be missed in an inspection. I showed the problem to the GP agent in the yard. He made a phone call to someone at GP. We had a short conversation and they made me an offer to discount the purchase price. I accepted the offer. It was probably not more than 10 to 15 minutes total time.

I cut the fins off the radiator fan to protect the radiator from damage, then drove the truck home with no radiator fan. The drive was 900 miles. It was cool weather. The ambient temperature was mostly in the 50sF. The coolant temperature stayed below 200F, mostly around 185 to 190F. The fan clutch never tried to engage. I drove interstate highway the whole way at about 52 mph.
When I got home and registered the truck and was charged state sales tax again because GP sales tax policy is poor if you pick up your truck. Not bad if you have it shipped. I then filed with GP for the over-payment of sales tax and the difference in the cost of the truck. They sent me a check. It took about a month for it to arrive.

Overall it worked out well. I tried several times to get GP to correct the sales tax calculation prior to paying them for the truck but they just won't do it. The only choice is to pay the sales tax twice then get reimbursed OR have the truck shipped.

It turned out the truck was issued to a national guard unit and not used much.
 

Phoenix77

Well-known member
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Greenville, NC
They pull the rear driveshafts if the trucks have to be towed to the GP yard. Yes, the truck may start etc., but there is going to be something catastrophically wrong with either the trans or the t-case.

Pulled rear driveshafts are a kiss of death in my experience.
 

Third From Texas

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Corpus Christi Texas
wild possibility... does the number on the dash (by driver knee) match the GP truck you bid on? Im wondering if possible someone swapped GP tags and took the better truck???
Ever try to get those damned stickers OFF?

And there are at least two dozen slapped in various places all over a truck.

And they are sun-baked on...

Heh
 
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