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1083A1 - Brakes do only half release, ABS light is on!

Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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AKAustria said:
I have found and downloaded more than one dozen of TM‘s, but came to realize they are for the 1083, and NOT the 1083A1!
Any pointers in the right direction?
Click to expand...
There's a fellow here and on the lmtv FaceBook group who has the A1's on thumb drive or disc.

I don't have the post here bookmarked, but it was within the past two months.
 
A

AKAustria

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Update!

Sunday‘s progress!
I got the truck on blocks and took the wheel off.
Using a long thin pry bar, I was able to push the one brake pad back some, enough to be able to pull the drum off.
Surprisingly, the drum came off rather quick, with the help of a big sledge hammer.
Here is where it get‘s interesting:
Both brake pads are free to move by hand against the spring, the plungers/adjusting bolts move free back and forth.
I even took the suspect plunger/adjusting bold out and put it back in.
It‘s easy to be moved in and out by hand. No signs of being stuck.
After putting the brake drum back on, I applied the brake pedal and only the rear facing brake pad moved back and forth.
The front facing pad does not move.

Questions I have now!

What is the „PAWL“ for?
Should I pull the „Wedge Assembly Spring“ out?
 

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Ronmar

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AKAustria said:
Questions I have now!

What is the „PAWL“ for?
Should I pull the „Wedge Assembly Spring“ out?
Click to expand...
The pawl rides in the slot in the plunger. It keeps it aligned/keeps it from rotating and limits its overall travel

Yes, pull the actuator and the wedge. Something is amiss if it wont push the forward plunger/shoe...
 
A

AKAustria

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After I removed the wheel and drum, and seeing what is going on, or not going on - I believe you might be onto something here. Hard to believe that someone would adjust too tight, but I don‘t know what and who is working on those trucks.
I believe that the oil leak comes from the wheel hub. It sure leaks and is spreading all over the inside of the drum/pads, so it does need to be addressed!
 
Floridianson

Floridianson

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Yes that inner grease seal can leak. No special tools to install a new one just a hammer and tap in straight.
Setting the hub back up with be the hardest thing. If you lived in the US I could send you my cut off hub tool and socket so you can set the gear lash. You will need a shim kit most likely to set up one hub.
Meritor shim kit #4715 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...anetary-hub-setup&highlight=gear+hub+shim+kit
 
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A

AKAustria

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Floridianson said:
Yes that inner grease seal can leak. No special tools to install a new one just a hammer and tap in straight.
Setting the hub back up with be the hardest thing. If you lived in the US I could send you my cut off hub tool and socket so you can set the gear lash. You will need a shim kit most likely to set up one hub.
Meritor shim kit #4715 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...anetary-hub-setup&highlight=gear+hub+shim+kit
Click to expand...
I DO live in the US. Not in the continental US, but in the US. ;-)
 
A

AKAustria

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2nd Update! - Possible not a brake issue?!

Hi folks!
Thanks to help of a lot of members, I have gotten very far and been able to eliminate a number of questions.
On the flip-side, I have created more questions.

Quick re-cap:

Air lines are free and sealed;
Brake pads are free to move;
Plungers move free;
Wedge movement undetermined, but assumed to be working;
Rear facing pad is moving and retrieving when applying brakes;
Front facing pad is not moving at all;
Oil (or grease) is seeping from the area around the hub behind the wheel;
Truck is moving slowly backwards without throttle;
Truck is NOT moving forward in Drive, only with plenty of throttle application;
Steering is pulling to the left hard when driving forward;

Thoughts!

Could it be an issue with the hub and it's internals?
Could a too tight adjusted brake pad be the issue? As one member already pointed out!


Before I am going into taking the hub apart and have to deal with special tools, as mentioned - I would like to ask one more time for inputs.

So sorry this is taking up so much time/space here but I really want to finally drive it somewhere! :-?

Thanks everyone for chiming in,

Andy
 
R

Ronmar

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Well with the brake drum off, you should be able to observe on the actuator end, that both brake shoes(pushed by their plungers)move equal distances when the brakes are applied. If this is not happening then you need to remove the air actuator and the wedge and inspect how the wedge and rollers are interfacing with the insides of the plungers...

truck is moving slowly backwards without throttle? That's in reverse right? A hung up brake pad like you are experiencing on that front wheel could cause this(need to use throttle to overcome the brake drag), you may have others that are too tight. You should have to actively restrain the truck with the brake pedal when you shift into D or R. These things WANT to go:)
 
A

AKAustria

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Ronmar said:
Well with the brake drum off, you should be able to observe on the actuator end, that both brake shoes(pushed by their plungers)move equal distances when the brakes are applied. If this is not happening then you need to remove the air actuator and the wedge and inspect how the wedge and rollers are interfacing with the insides of the plungers...

truck is moving slowly backwards without throttle? That's in reverse right? A hung up brake pad like you are experiencing on that front wheel could cause this(need to use throttle to overcome the brake drag), you may have others that are too tight. You should have to actively restrain the truck with the brake pedal when you shift into D or R. These things WANT to go:)
Click to expand...
My assumption was, if one plunger moves, the wedge SHOULD be working by looking at the drawings.
Yes! Moving backwards when in Reverse.
 
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Ronmar

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The wedge pushes between two rollers that spread apart. the rollers act as bearings between wedge and plunger. The rollers roll on the back of the plungers and push them outward as they are pushed outward. There may be a little slop in there that would allow one to move farther than the other but all things being equal, both shoes should be subject to about the same spring force and they should move equally. if you restrain the shoe that moves while you apply the brakes, the shoe that dosnt move should move just as far as the one that moved in the first place... They share the load, they shoud move equally...
 
A

AKAustria

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Ronmar said:
The wedge pushes between two rollers that spread apart. the rollers act as bearings between wedge and plunger. The rollers roll on the back of the plungers and push them outward as they are pushed outward. There may be a little slop in there that would allow one to move farther than the other but all things being equal, both shoes should be subject to about the same spring force and they should move equally. if you restrain the shoe that moves while you apply the brakes, the shoe that dosnt move should move just as far as the one that moved in the first place... They share the load, they shoud move equally...
Click to expand...
I completely agree! Yes! I came to the same conclusion, hence I didn't see the need to dig into the air chamber and pull the wedge.
I am happy to be confirmed on that. Thank you!
 
R

Ronmar

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AKAustria said:
I completely agree! Yes! I came to the same conclusion, hence I didn't see the need to dig into the air chamber and pull the wedge.
I am happy to be confirmed on that. Thank you!
Click to expand...
No, I dont think we came to the same conclusion... From what you have posted, I concluded that you DO need to dig into the air actuator and you DO need to pull the wedge because I dont think you have yet seen that forward shoe move and it should move...:) look at any of the other brake shoes from the axle side of the tire, easilly observed as they dont have covers, while someone steps on the brakes. Front or rear, both shoes move on mine...
 
Floridianson

Floridianson

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Your knee deep in it now and the water is not over you head on this one I promise. I looked for replacement parts on the bay sight and they had some and even had small parts kits for what they call the seal anchor plunger. You might even get way using the old seal but myself I would replace. As for the hub set up it to is not that bad of a job. You can make the deep well socket to reach over the long spindle if you can not find the correct one. Then just need a way to pin down the cross to check the lash. There is a member that is making one injected molded. Being the inner bearing is grease every military axle I have serviced needed the bearing repacked. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...himming-Setup&highlight=hub+kit+and+gear+lash
 
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Floridianson

Floridianson

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