Easypatriot
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Now if only you could score a HIMARS cab for it 
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
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Derrickl112
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Derrickl112
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Derrick, Nice score. PM me the serial number & full model number (and NSN just in case), and I'll see what I can come up with. I'm out of the office tomorrow but I can BS with my CW4 915 series on Weds if you give me a full description of the problem and see what he thinks.
tm america
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Wow very nice..congrats
Ord22
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Very nice derrick! What are your plans for the truck? Where did you win them at?
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DSD277
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Derrick
There may not be anything wrong. FMTVs are a full time 4x4 and 6x6s. The tranfercase acts as a open diff in normal mode and locks in off road mode. When you disconnected the front driveshaft you basically sent all the power to the front. The operation you saw after selecting off road mode and back to normal could be the the lapse in release time of the lock. From the parts TM, there appears to be another set of spiders in the tranfer case from the indermediate to rear axles.
Years ago, I actually had a 6x6 Pinz get stuck while turning into a driveway... everything was just right to lose traction to one wheel to both rear axles
There may not be anything wrong. FMTVs are a full time 4x4 and 6x6s. The tranfercase acts as a open diff in normal mode and locks in off road mode. When you disconnected the front driveshaft you basically sent all the power to the front. The operation you saw after selecting off road mode and back to normal could be the the lapse in release time of the lock. From the parts TM, there appears to be another set of spiders in the tranfer case from the indermediate to rear axles.
Years ago, I actually had a 6x6 Pinz get stuck while turning into a driveway... everything was just right to lose traction to one wheel to both rear axles
Derrickl112
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Derrickl112
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Derrickl112
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Derrick, beautiful truck...and gorgeous dog. I have two German Shepherds myself. They are great dogs.
bobr2004
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Lucky Dog 
What did ya give if you don't mind asking...
What did ya give if you don't mind asking...
sandcobra164
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I've spent some time with FMTV's and would like to point out that it has an "open" driveline when the CTIS is engaged to the highway setting. If you removed the front driveshaft and put it in gear, only the front output would spin. Now, try the same test but set the CTIS in X-CTY and you'll see that the truck will not spin any output shaft when it's sitting still. Now, leave the front driveshaft disconnected and lift one side of the truck. The lifted side will turn it's tires. Go back in and select MSS or Mud Sand and Snow and repeat. Now no tires that are in the air will spin and the front output will not spin either. These trucks came equipped with lockers in the transfer case and in the axles. The CTIS does more than adjust the tire pressures on these, they control the driveline locks as well.
Derrickl112
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DSD277
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Wow man,stay away from the FDT... you bad juju!
The starting may be a bad thermo switch in the starter, To bypass, just add a new ground wire to the aux starting relay... make sure its on the ground side.
The starting may be a bad thermo switch in the starter, To bypass, just add a new ground wire to the aux starting relay... make sure its on the ground side.
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Now you know why the Army surplused it. Nobody in the entire military/Red River Depot could figure out what was wrong with it.
Derrickl112
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Derrickl112
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DSD277
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The ground lead goes inside the starter to the thermo switch in the back plate.We used a test light to find the ground side of the trigger wires. On mine, only one wire on each side .... the small wires
sandcobra164
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These trucks are notorious for having bad starters. I just replaced the one on my M1089 this past weekend. Here's how to check. With the cab tilted forward, on the driver's side frame rail, you'll see the remote relay that you mentioned. The top small wire is a ground, the bottom small wire is the 24V positive that should get power when you press the starter switch. The rear large wire should have 24V when the power is switched on the and forward large wire should have power when the relay is closed by pressing the starter switch. If you've got that much going for you, the starter solenoid itself is suspect. I've changed many of those and it's not a bad job. From what I've seen, the starter motor is normally fine as far as windings, contacts and all the stuff in the heavy part. Pulling the starter is normally a two man job. There are three bolts, 10mm I want to say, and they aren't that tight most of the time. It drops down between the leaf spring and the front axle. I'm down to 30 minutes on replacing one but my first one took me about 2 hours. The truck should still start up regardless of the transmission having issues.