12 volt slave cable port?

[Red_506]

It just doesn't make sense to me to hack up a good set of slave cables when adding a civilian slave port and using tow truck style cables. Otherwise I think you will wind up regretting the endeavor in the long run.

 

[twomorestrokes]

So you are NEVER going to sell the truck? Will you remember to tell the future owner that the NATO plug is now 12v?

Will you ever loan the truck to someone for the day and they try to jumpstart someone?

Lots of questions back at me. Good. No, I do not plan on selling the truck as this is the most useful truck I've owned for what I need it for. Good riddance to my 2500HD which at the time, I thought it was the greatest. And yes, if I did sell it all I would have to do is move the under hood cables back to where they were, which is better than any warning I could give. No more confusion. And no, I don't loan out my vehicles.

Just the other day, a member I have never met, posted he needed a jump(24V slave). If you see a similar post n the future, you won't be able to help if you modify your slave port.

Sorry, but I disagree. If I ever WAS in a position to be able to help someone broken down in my area, all it would take is a 1/2" socket for the cable nuts and a minute of my time to swap the slave wiring back to the 24v blocks. If it were me stranded on the roadside with a dead battery, I could just as easily make the cable swap to allow my truck to be jump started from another military vehicle.

It just doesn't make sense to me to hack up a good set of slave cables when adding a civilian slave port and using tow truck style cables. Otherwise I think you will wind up regretting the endeavor in the long run.

Not my plan. I am doing this to avoid having to wire in civi slave parts. There are just NATO cable ends available for much less $$$. That way I would only be "hacking up" a standard set of jumper cables, installing one NATO end on them. Then I could jump start civi vehicles right from my existing port. As far as modifying the truck, all it would take is relocation of the existing under hood cables which is a one minute reversal in case of regret or resale of the vehicle.

Cleveland Iron, great suggestion on the installation of a battery cutoff switch! I have a couple of these floating around as well.

Thanks for your replies and opinions everyone.

 

[Warthog]

As long as your are on top of the issues (which you seem to be), I say go for it.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Not my plan. I am doing this to avoid having to wire in civi slave parts. There are just NATO cable ends available for much less $$$. That way I would only be "hacking up" a standard set of jumper cables, installing one NATO end on them. Then I could jump start civi vehicles right from my existing port. As far as modifying the truck, all it would take is relocation of the existing under hood cables which is a one minute reversal in case of regret or resale of the vehicle.

Cleveland Iron, great suggestion on the installation of a battery cutoff switch! I have a couple of these floating around as well.

Thanks for your replies and opinions everyone.

May I ask where you are finding NATO slave cable ends so cheaply? Shipping alone on one could cost as much as $8.00. I felt lucky when I got NOS ones for less that $30 ea. Used ones will require new ends. Anderson SB175 connectors can be bought all day on EBay for less than $18 a pr. Ultimately its your choice but it sounds as if your decision is already made. If you have a source for NOS slave cable ends for $20, after you get what you want, can you share the source please?

 

[twomorestrokes]

I didn't give the price of $20 but there are several ends available at different sources for a fraction of the cost of a complete NATO cable assembly. I know the Anderson plug ends are even cheaper, but my goal is to not have the add-on stuff hanging out the grill when there is already an existing NATO port there that would be easily modified to do the exact same thing. My original post was not asking for alternatives to the NATO plug, but was asking if it was possible to use the NATO plug as that was already the route I was interested in taking.

I do however, appreciate the information on the Anderson style setup. I looked up the parts needed to do this other style and I did consider it but the chances of me EVER using the NATO plug in it's 24v configuration are slim to none so I wanted to make the current setup functional for what I intend to use it for.

 

[Cleveland Iron]

I've actually seen a couple yo-yos jump start an old 12v car off of an old 24v jeep... Like 30 some years ago.

Yes, the car started and I still don't understand how they didn't fry anything.

Heck, I was at least expecting a small hydrogen flare with all the sparks I saw when they put the jumper cable on the 12v battery.

It took a hammer to break that cable free of the battery post later.

That is why I'm a big fan of fusible links and safety switches.

 

[Tlauden]

Was thinking of installing these allstars with the bracket on the front bumper. www.pitstopusa.com/c-132363-electrical-system-battery-battery-charging-post.hmtl

We have them on the pump panel of our Tanker and our Rescue/Engine at the firehouse. They are very convenient but in the end you still need a set of jumper cables.

I do like the Anderson connections, we have them on multiple vehicles at the fire dept to connect our warn winch. Easy to hook up and very low maintenance/cleaning when you get the rubber "caps" when they are not in use.

 

[wayne pick]

I just checked out the Phoenix USA booster cable system from Northern tool. $189.00 for 30 feet of #4 cable? Im not Thomas Edison, but isn't that a bit long for such a light guage cable? A bit pricy also. I just ordered two sets of Anderson connectors and plan on converting the 24v slave system to the Anderson setup as there is little to no chance of me slave jumping another MV. I do jump non military 24v vehicles once in a while. The plan is to have a clearly marked 12v and a 24v setup and pinch the male Anderson cable end on my existing jumper cables. I never let anyone handle cables when I jump a dead vehicle. I have seen some nasty smoke shows with people that don't know what they are doing.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Yeah, I checked that setup out as well. I think I could do a lot better for less money. I do like your idea of 12v AND 24v Anderson connectors at the front of your truck though.

 

[quickfarms]

I have both the 24 volt military and civilian 12 volt on my truck.

 

[twomorestrokes]

...

 

[Warthog]

You do know that eBay links are not allowed unless they are your own?

 

[sandcobra164]

I like the idea of a 12V slave receptacle on the front. My HMMWV at work has one and a pair of hacked up slave cables with automotive style clips on the end. Really comes in handy for slaving off forklifts, container stackers, Buffalo MRAP's (who are primarily 12V) and air compressors. We did install a battery cutoff switch and stenciled it 12V ONLY. The original 24V is by the passenger seat for jumping my truck off if it were dead. Wired as such for 2 years and have not had a problem.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Only slightly pertaining to this thread but up for consideration, The slave port in 24V configuration is nice for running a robo impact. I had a Ridgid brand cordless drill and recip saw that had bad batteries. I gutted the batteries, added a cord and LD slave plug and now I have vehicle powered tools. Both the saw and drill were used extensively at the GA Rally. Anyone with extra 18-24 cordless tools can reutilize them in this fashion when batteries are more costly than new tools.