12v, 24v alternator, batteries, cutoff switch, fuse box, & wiper install w/pics

[Stalwart]

I've decided to go a different route. Mounting 2 new one wire alternators on the HEMTT's 8V92 seemed kinda like a pain in the butt. I didn't like the idea of a DC-DC converter, I have a dead one of those already and you are limited to the capacity of the converter. I've decided to go the route that is used on many 24V motor coaches, a battery equalizer.

Initially they seemed like the most expensive option, I've seen them priced above $1000.00 The benefits are that there are only 3 connections, ground, 12V and 24V; they continuously balance the batteries within .05V, and they are small and all weather units.

I kept looking on FleaBay and I was able to snag a new latest 100A model for $200. Now I'll be able to run any 12V load I want, the batteries will discharge and charge together and I only have to make brackets for one civilian 1 wire alternator of around 100A capacity.

I'll of course be using circuit breakers and it will give me an excuse to make up all new, soldered and heat shrunk #0000 battery cables.

I've also decided to put the failing and overheating electronic blackout light issue to bed. I'm gonna make that switch do nothing but control relays, my last one burnt down 4 IC chips and my truck only has LED lights. We'll see if it can burn itself up switching less .5A and yes, I'll be using relays with a diodes to protect the IC's.

 

[Trango]

Wow. The battery equalizer seems like it would solve alot of issues with 24v to 12v. I'd never heard of such a thing until now - thanks so much for posting.

 

[Stalwart]

The beauty of the equalizer is that you are not current limited by the equalizer in the short term. The equalizer's rating is only the amount of current it can transfer, and in the case of the 70 series, they are better than 97% efficient. You can draw as much power as the battery can produce in the short term, the equalizer will just continue to transfer power until the battery charge is balanced. With the equalizer you won't end up with one undercharged battery and one cooked one, been there done that.

I have numerous 12V systems on the HEMTT including: roof mounted electrically powered remote controlled spot light, FLiR camera and 2 monitors, flashlight charging station, phone chargers and a cigarette lighter socket. I want this to be a straight forward, maintenance free affair as possible. The DC-DC converter was never a consideration for me, the only other option I considered was the second alternator and 12V battery and I only decided against it because of the extra alternator I needed to drive.

 

[jdgreen]

How are your battery cut off switches working? i been looking at the site and thinking about putting something like these on the M813.

Longacre Racing - Online Catalog: Electronic Wheel Scales, Gauges, Pyrometers, Chassis Setup and More!

If i am thinking correctly (mind you im not good at figuring electrical) if i put these on the ground side of the truck i should not have any issues right? As it would be on the (-) side of the electrical system? My truck keeps going dead if it sits for very long. I know i need to find the reason for the draw, but im also trying to help find another way to help till i can find my reason for the draw.

 

[juddspaintballs]

Beautiful work. I'll get to that point someday.

What's the big deal with 1 wire alternators though? Why not use a 2 wire alternator that monitors battery charge levels and doesn't require being spun as quickly to charge?

 

[Unforgiven]

How are your battery cut off switches working? i been looking at the site and thinking about putting something like these on the M813.

Longacre Racing - Online Catalog: Electronic Wheel Scales, Gauges, Pyrometers, Chassis Setup and More!

If i am thinking correctly (mind you im not good at figuring electrical) if i put these on the ground side of the truck i should not have any issues right? As it would be on the (-) side of the electrical system? My truck keeps going dead if it sits for very long. I know i need to find the reason for the draw, but im also trying to help find another way to help till i can find my reason for the draw.

The battery cutoffs work great. If I did it over I would put them on the + side, not the - side. I'm running both 12v & 24v. If I accidentally leave a 24v circuit open (such as the headlights) when the truck is off then the 24v batteries will back drain through the 12v alternator. Putting the cutoffs on the + side would fix that (as would remembering to shut off the darned lights).

If it's strictly for 24v you can put the cutoffs on either the + or - side. You won't have this problem.

They're only about $12. Plus they add a layer of security against the casual, teenage joyrider.

 

[Unforgiven]

Beautiful work. I'll get to that point someday.

What's the big deal with 1 wire alternators though? Why not use a 2 wire alternator that monitors battery charge levels and doesn't require being spun as quickly to charge?

You could. An alternator is an alternator. It spins and makes electricity. I simply ordered Wolverine's kit for simplicity. Personally, I love 1-wire alternators. I've put them on many vehicles in the past. It gets rid of so many electrical problems associated with old wiring, old regulators, etc.

These Wolverine alternators charge at idle. By 1000 rpm they're cranking as much voltage as they ever will. They're really nice alternators. And both the 12 & 24v are high amperage, more than enough for any reasonable demand. When I swap engines this year I might make custom brackets to put them on the new engine (Cummins with a serpentine belt). That's how much I like these alternators.

 

[Unforgiven]

Let me add,

A few months ago I came out in the morning to find my driver's door fully open & many of the dash switches out of position.

Someone climbed in & tried to start it. Obviously they were too dumb to realize those big, black, plastic knobs right in front of them were battery cutoffs (with the red, plastic keys missing of course).

So, I'd say they are definitely well worth the trouble to install. I installed two in parallel to ensure more than enough amperage was available to the starter. One cutoff switch is more than sufficient. I'm just a huge fan of over-engineering everything.

 

[bones1]

I do like your work. Where did you get the kill switches?.

 

[Unforgiven]

Longacre racing battery cutoff 45748



Amazon has them for $12

Amazon.com: Longacre Economy Battery Disconnect Switch: Automotive

 

[sunshinelock]

I love the 4-battery bay. What size group are these batteries?