12v AND 24v?

[billyzz]

ok
i have a m43b1 that has had a 318 installed the PO said he wired the lights to work
my issue is i want all the gauges ,horn,heater and stuff to work as well
but all that is 24v
how do i make it so everything but the engine (i guess) is 24v?
any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated!

 

[clinto]

Well, you have a couple choices:

Get some sort of alternator or generator that puts out 24V and feed all your stock components 24V ......................

Or use the 12V alternator that your 318 is almost guaranteed to have and convert all the stuff on your vehicle (gauges, lights, etc.) to 12V.

 

[billyzz]

So run another alternator but this one 24v?
a 12 for the engine and a 24 for every thing else?

 

[billyzz]

found this on ebay?


DC12V Step Up to 24V 240W 10A Car Power Converter Regulator Adaptor

 

[clinto]

Let''s back up for a second.

I assume the 318 engine has a civilian, 12V alternator on it, right?

 

[billyzz]

Let''s back up for a second.

I assume the 318 engine has a civilian, 12V alternator on it, right?

yes sir

 

[billyzz]

to clarify
all i am trying to do is get the interior lights and gauges to work/read correctly

 

[clinto]

Ok, then it's safe to assume you've lost the 24V power source and that's why we're discussing 12V at all, correct?

If it were me, I'd find a civilian 24V alternator and I'd replace the 12V alternator currently on the 318. That pretty much solves all your issues.

If you want 12V power because you want a bunch of civilian stuff like 12V electric winches, stereos, trailer brake controllers, etc., then I'd use the civilian 12V alternator and i'd replace the 24V gauges and light bulbs with 12V units and not have any 24V stuff on the vehicle.

I do not think there's any point in having a needlessly complex dual voltage system on a truck like this.

 

[billyzz]

THIS IS A REPLY I GOT FROM ANOTHER SITE

[h=3]Re: swapping 24 to 12[/h] by just me » Sat Dec 19, 2015 8:28 pm
I have no build thread, but the info was put on the facebook page along with some pics.
Basically, when I got my truck, there was not an inch of good wiring left. The original harness had rotted and the PO wasn't exactly good with wiring.
So, I bought an entire new harness for a B1 with Douglas connectors (so I could have turn signals) from Joe at Vintage Wiring of Maine. Told him I didn't need the 24V charging wiring or the distributer plug. He provided a pigtail for the distributor and I made the charging harness from the correct wire and Douglas connectors.
Installed the harness and 12V lamps in the lamp housings, headlamps, High beam indicator and instrument lights.
Intercepted the lead to the Breaker that feeds the spider harness and ran it through a 10amp 12V to 24V DC convertor and fed that to the breaker/spider.
Now, the instruments and all of the associated senders are still 24V and do not have to be changed. You keep the red backlighting. (With the loss of the dim setting as the resistor in the 3 lever switch drops the voltage too far to see the filaments. (If you have a switch you can open, you could change that resistor.))
The generator gauge now shows the condition of the convertor and I added a 12V gauge and ammeter to show condition of charging system under the dash. One other thing however, the stock generator gauge will read in the yellow band as the convertor puts out 24V and that is the yellow band showing not charging, Green starts at 26V.
I recalibrated the gauge so it points into the green at 24V.
Since the 12V starter didn't have the foot switch, I mounted a CJ2 start pedal on a fabricated bracket in the original location and made cables from Batt to switch to starter. I did not want a start solenoid, keyswitch or any of that stuff.
It has been working for a year now with no issues and I use the truck as a daily driver.

 

[billyzz]

it sounds like a $16 part will do what i want